Silver Dog Vineyards

I visited Silver Dog Vineyards when it opened for a sneak-peak in late July. I emphasize ‘sneak peak’ because the interior of the tasting room is still under construction, but the wine and patio are ready for guests.

Anyone who’s been wine tasting near Linden has likely heard of Silver Dog, given its vineyard is visible from Fiery Run Road. In fact, I’d say Silver Dog is arguably in the best ‘winery neighborhood’ in Virginia, given Linden Vineyards, Capstone, Crimson Lane, and Accord (former Fox Meadow) are each under 10 minutes away.

This isn’t by accident. I asked owner Eric Gronning how he found this site, and he was up front that he wanted to be in the same neighborhood as Jim Law, one of his inspirations for Virginia wine.

Owners Lori Robertson and Eric Gronning

Eric purchased this 18-acres hilltop farm in 2018 from a local attorney. Not only does the farm have steep slopes and elevation, but it already had an acre of vines.

The backstory of the name is Eric made a deal with his wife Lori that if they purchased the vineyard then she got to name it. The logical choice was to name it after their dog Silver, because ‘he was the best.’

The two planted the vines long before the tasting room started construction, so they opened with their own wine. Silver Dog currently has 9 acres of vines, mostly Bordeaux reds plus Chardonnay, Petit Manseng, and Barbera.

All of these, plus Sagrantino, a high-tannin, medium acidity Italian grape indigenous to Central Italy. This may be Virginia’s first commercial planting of this varietal.

Wait – what?

I needed to know more, so I asked Eric and winemaker Shai Van Gelder for more details.

Eric explained he picked Sagrantino because it’s one of his favorite varietals from Italy, having been to Umbria many times. Shai had high praise for this grape, although its tannic nature (on par or greater than Tannat) can make it rather aggressive. Linden Vineyards also has a trial block, so maybe this grape will find a home here.

Silver Dog is aiming for around 1,200 cases/year, all estate fruit. While their current lineup has 4 wines, there are several more (including a reserve red blend, a full Sagrantino, and Barbera) that aren’t on the tasting menu yet.

Granted Silver Dog’s tasting room isn’t finished but given Eric’s architectural background I’m expecting it to be stunning when completed. It helps that they already have an amazing view.

When they reopen in September they will do so with a full kitchen, since food service will be an integral part of the experience.

What we tried:

  • 2023 Chardonnay, made in new oak and stainless-steel tanks. I thought it was tart but could sense the fruit. Shai said he was originally aiming for it to be more Burgundian but ended more along a Chablis.
  • 2024 Petit Manseng: This wine had texture but not to the degree that I’m accustomed from most PMs. Dry with tropical notes, including lemon and diluted pineapple. Shai said he pressed the fruit super light to avoid phenolics.
  • 2024 Rosé: 70/30 blend of Cab Sauv and Barbera, made using the saignée (bleed off) method for a richer profile. Notes of sour cherry and cranberry.
  • 2023 Rock Island (red blend using Barbera, Cab S., Petit Verdot, and Sagrantino): It had some tannin but I mostly remember its long finish. Plenty of fruit notes (especially black fruit), and maybe a little tart. It was fruity enough that we could drink it outside, despite it being a warm day (it also can pair with spicy food)

I enjoyed all the wines, but felt the Rock Island was the star of the show (and I got a bottle). Shai insisted that while Rock Island is designed to be soulful and fruity, his upcoming red blend will be even better.

Silver Dog is reservations only, and only open in July and August 2026 before temporarily closing again.

Barboursville Vineyards: Trailblazing Winery Celebrates 50 Years

Barboursville Vineyards recently celebrated its 50th anniversary. It’s poetic that the birth date of arguably Virginia’s most prestigious estate winery is shared with America’s most celebrated patron of wine, Thomas Jefferson.

CEO and Head Winemaker Luca Paschina says this is a coincidence. I’d like to think it’s fate that these legacies are intertwined.

Jefferson is famous not only for his love of wine, but his attempts to grow European grapes at his home at Monticello (located only 20 miles from Barboursville’s own vines). Those efforts never came to fruition, but he famously predicted, “We could, in the United States make as great a variety of wines as are made in Europe: not exactly of the same kinds, but doubtless as good.”

This history was not lost on Gianni Zonin, president of one of Italy’s most prominent wine dynasties. While scouting for potential locations to expand, he and his friend Gabriele Rausse discovered a pastoral farm that was once the estate of James Barbour, a friend and political ally of Jefferson.

When Gianni told Gabriele of his plan to grow vitis vinifera, the grapevine species most commonly associated with fine wine but one with (at the time) a poor track record along the East Coast, Gabriele’s response reportedly was, “My God, he’s gone insane.”

Nevertheless, Gianni persisted, no doubt inspired by the idea of continuing Jefferson’s legacy. Data that showed the area had a terroir reminiscent of central Italy only solidified his dedication. He purchased what is now Barboursville Vineyards on April 13th, 1976.

Jefferson’s legacy is intertwined with Barboursville’s in other ways as well. Not far from the tasting room are the ruins of the Barbour mansion, which Jefferson designed featuring a distinctive octagonal drawing room.

After learning how Jefferson reportedly claimed this shape symbolized “perfection and balance”, Gabriele’s eventual successor Luca adopted it as the name of Barboursville’s signature wine – Octagon.

Shepherding Virginia Wine Into The Modern Era

Barboursville’s founding marks the beginning of the modern era of the Virginia wine industry. Yet at the time, its success was far from assured.

As Luca explained, “Keep in mind that in the ‘70s, the favorite (local) beverages at the time were either iced tea or bourbon. Wine was not yet as much engrained in the culture.”

Being trailblazers meant unforeseen challenges were inevitable. Many of Barboursville’s first vines had to be removed, as the plants Gabriele initially selected didn’t fare well because of poor plant material.

Even so, the viticultural experience the Barboursville team brought from Italy allowed them to challenge some of the nascent wine industry’s prevailing norms.

One example was how Gabriele decided to plow his vineyard more deeply than local wisdom suggested. He reasoned having his roots access the nutrient-deficient soils underneath the richer topsoil would force his vines to struggle, producing better quality grapes. Practices like this proved crucial in demonstrating vinifera could successfully grow in Virginia.

Over time, Barboursville did more than just establish itself as a local industry leader. It became, in the words of Dave McIntyre (one of my favorite East Coast-based wine writers), Virginia’s answer to France’s iconic “First Growth” Châteaux.

For those not familiar with that term, First Growth estates are the most esteemed and historic wineries in Bordeaux. Their wines are also the benchmark by which the rest of Bordeaux, if not the world, is rated.

The feedback Barboursville receives from wine critics backs this assertion.

Since the Virginia Governor’s Cup wine competition was reformatted in 2012, Barboursville’s wines have consistently been among the event’s top scorers, earning 19 Case entries and 3 overall Cup wins (the most of any winery in both categories).

Wine magazines have also praised Barboursville, with Decanter crowning the 2017 Octagon as one of their 50 top-rated wines of America for 2025 and 20 top-rated Merlots worldwide (the only Virginia wine on either list).

Entering a Time of Transition

This March, Barboursville was sold to a group of private investors, marking the first change of ownership since the Zonins founded the property.

According to the news release, Luca stated, “Our investor group, with no other wine industry interests, fully supports Barboursville’s mission to craft world class wines and provide outstanding hospitality, while preserving the grounds of the historic vineyard estate and elevating the prestige of Virginia wines nationally and internationally.”

The sale was a poorly kept secret for months, and there is still no shortage of gossip regarding how this change will impact Barboursville’s future. This transition is especially impactful given that a generational shift is reshaping perceptions how alcohol is marketed and enjoyed.

Fortunately, Luca is promising stability. During Barboursville’s 50th anniversary celebration, he provided assurances that Barboursville’s winemaking and viticultural team would remain in place, and so far no other major changes have been announced.

Local industry observers including McIntyre and Frank Morgan, Director of Judging for the Virginia Governor’s Cup, have noted that keeping Luca in place is a hopeful sign. Should these owners continue Luca’s focus on Barboursville’s vineyards and hospitality, it will only improve its already world-class image.