Category Archives: Winery

Summer Stock Up: 12 Virginia Wines Under $30

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The $20-30 price range is often cited as the ‘sweet spot’ for wine lovers. These are bottles meant to be splurged on without guilt, rather than saved for a perceived ‘special occasion’.

Naysayers may say the under $30 range puts more ‘serious’ Virginia wines out of reach. To an extent that may be true. You’re unlikely to find big bold reds (which require aging in expensive barrels) in this price range, or the flagship bottles from well-known wineries.

But don’t let anyone tell you that you can’t find great local wine for under $30. Deals can be found if you know where to look.

Here are 12 Virginia wines that strike the right balance between quality and affordability.

White Wines

Barboursville Vineyards 2024 Vermentino Reserve ($23): Barboursville’s Vermentino is so good, it’s been selected for the Virginia Governor’s Case (honoring the Top 12 wines in Virginia’s premiere wine event) 7 out the past 8 times its competed. Their 2024 Vermentino is the latest in this series of wins.

Vermentino isn’t a variety that comes to mind when thinking of Virginia wine but is very much in keeping with Barboursville’s Italian heritage. This wine has aromas of pear and lemon, followed by a surprising amount of minerality and acidity on the palate.

Chatham Vineyards 2024 Steel Chardonnay ($25): Located along Virginia’s Eastern Shore, Chatham produces some of the most terroir-driven wines in Virginia. I could easily list any of their wines here (their $28 Bordeaux-blend is also a steal), but my favorite is its steel-fermented chardonnay.

Chatham’s secret weapon is its soil – a combination of sandy loam mixed with ancient shell deposits. This combination gives its chardonnays a unique minerality that makes them stand out. Make sure to pair this wine with local oysters.

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Fifty-Third Winery & Vineyard 2024 Albariño ($29.99): Albariño is an up-and-coming grape for Virginia, having gone from 12 producing acres in 2019 to almost 60 in 2026. Fifty-Third produces one of my favorites.

This wine has a classic albariño profile. It’s superbly tropical with a focus on pear and apricot, and the nose perfectly matches the flavors on the palate.

Pollak Vineyards 2023 Sauvignon Blanc ($28): Pollak is another under-the-radar winery in a corner of Virginia full of great options.

Their 2023 Sauvignon Blanc won Gold at the 2026 San Francisco Chronical Wine awards, one of the most prestigious wine competitions in the US. It has just a touch of oak coupled with 7 months aging in concrete, allowing the wine to express bright acidity and ripeness, along with notes of lemon and grapefruit.

Red Wines

Barren Ridge Vineyards 2023 Merlot ($28): The Shenandoah Valley combines two major advantages. First, limestone soil and limited rainfall make the valley a great location for viticulture. Second, land prices are affordable, making it easy to produce wine at very reasonable prices. This is why Barren Ridge is the first of four Shenandoah-based vineyards to appear on this list.

Barren Ridge’s merlot hits at only 12.4% alcohol, making it very easy drinking. It has notes of raisinated fruit and caramel on the nose, with berry cobbler and forest floor on the palate.

Glen Manor Vineyards 2023 Petit Rouge ($25): Located outside Front Royal, Glen Manor Vineyards often has an affordable red wine to go alongside their lineup of top-notch Bordeaux blends. This spot is currently occupied by Petit Rouge, a cabernet franc-heavy red blend.

Petit Rouge has notes of plumb, fresh tobacco leaf, and violet. It’s also bigger on the palate than you’d expect for a wine with the name “Petit” on it.

Gabriele Rausse Winery 2023 Cabernet Franc ($23): Gabriele offers an array of wallet-friendly wines, typically made in a ‘drink now’ style. One of my current favorites is their cabernet franc.

Cabernet franc thrives in Virginia and arguably could be its signature grape. This wine shows notes of black cherry, strawberry jam, plum, and vanilla on the nose. On the palate you’ll find black raspberry, cola, and black pepper.

Noer Vineyards 2023 Cabernet Franc ($19): I added a second cabernet franc to my lineup because not only are these wines among Virginia’s most affordable reds, but very different expressions can be found across the state. Whereas Gabriele’s wine is juicy, I enjoyed Noer’s cabernet franc for its combination of bright acidity, black cherry notes, and overall approachability.

Noer is one of Virginia’s newest wineries, located not far from Staunton. The Shenandoah Valley already has plenty of budget-friendly wines, but the price point of Noer’s wines are especially ridiculous when you consider their quality.

Rosé and Sparkling

Fabbioli Cellars 2024 Rosé of Merlot ($26): The film “Sideways” did a disservice to merlot, a grape that’s a strong performer in Virginia. This merlot-based rosé is a case-in-point.

Doug Fabbioli’s 2024 rosé won Best in Class at the 2025 Loudoun Wine Awards. The judges no doubt appreciated how it nicely balances acidity with a creamy mouthfeel, with notes of strawberries, white peaches, and honeysuckle. Try this wine with a lobster salad or a fresh fruit tart.

Ox-Eye Vineyards “Daily Bubbles” ($29): Owner John Kiers doesn’t believe bubbles should be reserved for special occasions. That’s why he makes “Daily Bubbles”, a German-style sparkling wine designed not to break your budget.

This 50% Riesling/50% Grüner Veltliner blend spends under a year on the lees, making it lighter and fruitier than most other Méthode Champenoise-style wines. It has notes of pear and light citrus, with a dryness that brings out its bright acidity. This makes “Daily Bubbles” both food-friendly and great for everyday quaffing.

Rosemont Vineyards Extra Brut Sparkling ($25): My list focuses on wineries that are under-the-radar and deliver great value. Rosemont more than qualifies for both descriptions.

Rosemont’s Extra Brut is made with chardonel, a hybrid grape with chardonnay DNA. Its zippy acidity makes this grape a great choice for sparkling wine, and it delivers with notes of white peach and grapefruit. Winemaker Justin Rose made this wine in the Charmat method (the same process used for Prosecco), a cost-effective process where the secondary fermentation is done in a large tank vs inside the bottle.

Stinson Vineyards 2024 Rosé of Tannat ($25): I’m a big believer in tannat’s potential in Virginia. This high-acid, high tannin grape has a reputation for making bold red wines, but it’s less commonly found as a rosé. Stinson’s is one of the few exceptions.

I’m a sucker for its salmon color, which just screams ‘rosé’ when I see it. It’s also highly crushable, with great acidity, white peach and strawberry notes, and a bigger mouthfeel than I’m accustomed to in rosés.

Meet The Assistant Winemakers For Pollak Vineyards and Zephaniah Farm

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Winemakers are often the ‘face’ of the winery they work for. That said, they are backed by a team who help them craft the best wine possible.

One of the most important members of this team is a position that usually gets limited fanfare – their Assistant Winemaker.

Assistant winemakers typically run day-to-day operations in the cellar, focusing on tasks such as monitoring fermentation, conducting lab analyses, and ensuring the workspace is fully sanitized. These responsibilities are unglamorous but crucial to a winery’s success.

While few of Virginia’s Assistant Winemakers have name recognition outside industry circles, this can quickly change as they move to new roles.

Corry Craighill was in her first Head Winemaker position (at Sunset Hills Vineyard) for only a few years when she was recognized as Loudoun County’s Winemaker of the Year in 2019. This past March, she was awarded the top prize at the 2026 Virginia Governor’s Cup wine competition for her Valley Road Vineyards 2023 Cabernet Franc Reserve.

Corry’s success underscores the importance of keeping tabs on the people filling Assistant Winemaker roles. These winemakers may be “Assistants” today, but they are also tomorrow’s leaders.

Jordan Demain, Pollak Vineyards

How did you get into winemaking?

“It was my dad that planted the seed for my interest in winemaking. I just fell in love with wine, learning how it reflects a sense of place.

I was born in Philly and grew up in southern New Jersey. For years I worked in the New Jersey wine industry, learning about wine and just finding my passion.

In 2016, I applied for an internship at King Family Vineyards and got to work with their winemaker, Matthieu Finot. It wasn’t long before Matthieu recommended me for a position at Pollak. By the end of the year, I was working full time there.

I’ve been an East Coast winemaker my entire career. I think it’s more challenging here, but that makes it more rewarding. It also makes me want to elevate the game of the region I’m from.”

Describe your role as Pollak’s Assistant Winemaker

“I do all the hands-on winemaking, seeing it from grape to bottle. The cellar isn’t just my domain, it’s my home-away-from-home. I take care of the barrels, clean tanks, do bottling, and perform maintenance.

You can say that our winemaker Benoit Pineau makes the plan, and I execute the plan. But our owners Margo and David Pollak also make sure the winery has a very family-like atmosphere, where everyone has a role.

We’re also growing. Pollak’s estate vineyard has 35 acres of vines, but we now have a second vineyard with another 50 acres. That will increase our production to maybe 12,000 cases a year, so there will always be something to do.”

What’s your favorite grape to work with?

“Merlot! Our cabernet franc also does well, but merlot has been the most consistent grape for us. It was our 2023 Merlot Reserve that was selected for the 2026 Governor’s Case (recognizing the top 12 wines of the event).

But nebbiolo is climbing up that list. It has the potential for some really age worthy wines, and this year we released our first nebbiolo.

I’m thinking of doing a side-project of my own but haven’t gotten to that part yet. But I would make a riesling if I could.”

Emily Hatch, Zephaniah Farm Vineyard

How did you get into winemaking?

“I was the accidental catalyst for my family becoming involved in winemaking and winegrowing.

In 2001 I was a sophomore studying agro-archeology (the study of ancient agricultural practices) in Northern Italy when my dad visited me. His time in Alto Adige was his first real exposure to wine, and he became hooked.

Not knowing anything yet about viticulture, he asked one of my professors what it takes to plant a vineyard. The professor’s response? ‘Bill, it’s farming. Just plant the damn grapes!’

My family installed our first vineyard a year later and opened the winery in 2007.

I came back to Virginia in 2010. I didn’t return with the intent of becoming a winemaker; being a social worker is still my ‘day’ job. But one thing about my family is when it comes to working on the farm, we’re all hands-on deck.

For me, being a winemaker has been mostly on-the-job training. I’ve taken winemaking classes at Virginia Tech but have never taken a chemistry class in my life! But according to my friends, I’m a ‘super taster’; someone with an especially sensitive sense of taste and smell”.

What parts of the business are you in charge of?

“Our sparkling wine, ‘Possibilities,’ is my pet project. It uses chardonel grapes and is made in the traditional method. We’re now making its 3rd edition.

I went to my family and said ‘This is what I want to do. Are you ok with it?,’ and they were all on board. I picked chardonel because I love working with this grape, and it’s a reflection of the ‘possibilities’ that hybrid grapes offer in winemaking.

I have the title of Assistant Winemaker, but when you’re in a family business, all roles get blended since we do everything together. So being ‘Assistant’ is really a broad term.”

Tell me about your wine that took Gold in the Governor’s Cup

“Most of our reds are quite blended since I’m really picky with winemaking. Zephaniah’s top-scoring wine in the Governor’s Cup was our 2023 Cabernet Franc (which has some merlot). It was produced from our first vines, planted in 2002.

2023 was initially a tough growing season because the leaves kept dying because it was such a dry year. But that drought really pushed the vines to make amazing wine.”

Arterra Wines Winter Dinner and 2023 Vintage Release

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Last week I attended a wine dinner hosted by Arterra Wines. Not only has Arterra consistently been one of my favorite wineries, but this event also featured many of their newest releases. Since I’ve been anticipating tasting their 2023 vintage reds for years, my attendance was practically mandatory.

Wine dinners are often a combination of food pairings and education, and this event didn’t disappoint. Owner/winemaker Jason Murray discussed the overall ethos behind his winemaking, as well as the wines being served.

For those who aren’t familiar with Arterra, Jason is one of Virginia’s foremost proponents of minimal intervention winemaking. He’s so hyper ‘minimal’ he frowns on using techniques even other self-described ‘minimalists winemakers’ utilize, and calls his winemaking style ‘clean winemaking’ (which is stylistically similar to ‘natural wine’, although he prefers his wines filtered as opposed to cloudy).

Jason could write essays on what constitutes clean winemaking, but the short version boils down to two things: limited (and more recently, 100% organic) sprays in the vineyard, and the use of natural yeast in the cellar. He also doesn’t use new oak in his wines, as that would insert an external flavor profile.

Limited chemical spraying has always been one of Jason’s hallmarks; the main reason he previously tolerated any non-organic spraying was because for years he didn’t have an effective method to control black rot (a destructive grape disease that afflicts vineyards in warm, humid areas).

Jason started his move to 100% organic farming 2023, after newer organic materials came on the market. When his 1/2-acre trial run proved successful, he expanded his organic program to his entire estate vineyard. As of 2025, his estate vineyard is now fully organic and should receive its organic vineyard certification by 2028.

The other element of Jason’s winemaking is his usage of native yeast. During the event, Jason explained “Yeast is the starting point to either express your site or override that expression to produce wine the way you want to produce it”.

He further explained how his ‘clean winemaking’ style had three main outcomes; 1) wines that produce wine a rounder, broader profile, which is more outwardly expansive on the palate, 2) wines with a richer ‘chewer’ texture, which is especially unusual in dry wines, and 3) his wines have wonderfully fresh, clean finish. These factors were present in the samples we had that night.

The wines he served were from the 2023 vintage, widely regarded as one of Virginia’s best in decades.

Wine and Food Pairing

Nomad Provisions were our chefs for the evening. They served a series of small plates and chose the wine pairings for them (Jason was happy to let the food experts select the pairings).

2023 Roussanne (with focaccia bread): Very full bodied for a white wine, with maybe a touch of lemon peel on the palate. Those lemon notes became more expressive the longer the wine sat in my glass. I thought it was a great starter wine, and I assume the high texture was a direct result of Jason’s ‘clean winemaking’ practices.

Arterra is one of the few roussanne growers in Virginia. Ironically, a friend of mine texted me a day earlier praising this particular wine during his visit a day earlier, not knowing I was going to this event.

2023 Petit Sirah (with roasted vegetable tart). Juicy and bright, but the tannins were there. I found notes of leather, or perhaps tobacco at the end. This is what Arterra provides to guests who are looking for wine with structure and backbone, like Cab Sauv.

Jason explained Petit Sirah is something of an outlier in Virginia. Apparently, Petit Sirah tends to suck up water so its flavor profile can be very vintage dependent. That said, in the vineyard it’s also become a lot easier to work with once the vines matured. Oddly enough, Jason’s initial Petit Sirah harvests produced huge clusters (the opposite you’d expect from a grape with the name ‘petit’ in the name) but those clusters shrank as the vines matured.

2023 Petit Verdot (paired with arosticcini, and a pine nut & arugula pesto). Hearty and earthy. This is a great grape for Jason’s minimalist winemaking, as it’s one of the most weather hardy vinifera grapes in the state. If Jason could pick out a state grape for Virginia, this would be his #1 choice (note: Jason is not a big fan of cabernet franc, so he admits he’s slightly biased here).

PS – Jason and I both learned that ‘arosticcini’ is just a fancy word for a lamb kabob!

2023 Tannat (with beef bourguignon). If a wine could be described as ‘brooding’, this is it. As it opened, I found notes of black cherry, plus maybe some cola qualities as well. Most notably, there were lots, lots, and lots of tannin.

2023 Crooked Run red blend (with chocolate raspberry cake). Also heavy on tannins, but not quite to the degree of the tannat. I kind of wish it had more fruit qualities, but I appreciated how it evolved the most in the glass (in fact, I would say the sampled I tried all evolved quite a bit).

I finished up with a Chardonnay, which like the roussanne had a lot of intensity for a white wine.

I was supposed to be joined by Dan Redding of MyNovaWineBlog, but he bailed on me because this event was rescheduled! We actually tasted the 2023 release earlier in the year, but I get bragging rights for being at the dinner (na-na-nana-na, Dan).

Ovoka Farm Wagyu & Wine Tour

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Anyone who’s hiked Sky Meadows Stake Park has seen Ovoka Farm in the distance. Situated on the northern end of the park, the farm’s red-roofed manor home and grain silos have long been magnets for local photographers.

Now, you can actually visit.

The property has gone through many iterations, ranging from an early 18th century farmstead, equestrian center, and personal residence. In 2012 it was purchased by the current owner, who slowly transitioned into an event space, AirBnB, and wagyu cattle farm.

Adding to this series of ventures is its latest initiative; a partnership with The Winery at Bull Run to become a farm winery. I was quick to join their first official “Wagyu & Wine” tour, one a series of events now available on their website.

The Farm and Manor

I’d be remiss to just say ‘it’s an old farm’ and leave it at that.

The land was part of an 18th century colonial land owned by Robert Carter, who at the time was one of Virginia’s largest landowners. In 1769 it was surveyed by George Washington, who stayed at a stone building that still stands today. The name ‘Ovoka’ means ‘ever running water’, although the owners aren’t sure what language it originated from.

Today, the farm consists of ~700 acres, including a farm store and a cira-1780s manor home. I came early for photos, which allowed me to stop at their pickup some Shepard’s pie for dinner at their future tasting room.

Owner Karen Wray moved here from Chicago for more space for her family. As the kids gradually moved out, she decided the farm was best suited for raising cattle. And not just any cattle – Japanese Wagyu.

Wagyu beef is prized for its fine marbling and tenderness, the result a low-stress life (you might say they live charmed lives…until their very last day). Chefs love it, and Ovoka sells their beef to an assortment of fancy local restaurants. You can also find it at some farmers markets and their food truck.

One drawback about Wagyu is it’s not easy for non-chefs to cook. To compensate, Ovoka bred their cattle with more traditional American Angus. The 400-head herd is now “F1 Wagyu”, a 50/50 cross with the best traits of both.

GW stayed in the stone building

The Wine and Event

Our event was in the main dining space and den (nicknamed “The Cherry Room”), but guests got to wander around, gawking at the various bedrooms. I also sneaked out to take a picture of where George Washington slept.

Operations Director Mel Freshwater gave the attendees the low-down on the property’s history and their newest direction, then followed up with a series of wine and food paring, highlighting Ovoka’s beef.

Ovoka doesn’t yet have vines on the property, so in the interim they serve Bull Run wine and rely upon their expertise. Bull Run’s Winemaker Kendell Anderson makes wine onsite for them using Virginia grapes, and Ovoka-branded wine is coming in the future.

We lounged around next to the fireplace enjoyed our first sampling; a tasty amuse-bouche of beef bone broth made with thyme and cognac. Mel also did a show-and-tell using artifacts from the property (it was good I remember them, since they were part of an informal scavenger hunt).

Of course, the highlight was our food and wine pairings. First off was a 2024 Viognier paired with a wagyu tartare, then a savory cheese puff (the fancy name is tallow gougère) to go along with their 2024 Rosé.

Then came the empanadas – lots of them. The salsa verde was spicy, but we cooled them off with Bull Run’s 2022 Cabernet Franc.

Not surprisingly, my favorite were the beef sliders made with that W1 Wagyu, paired with a 2020 Merlot.

If it hadn’t been so cold I would have walked around outside more – although that didn’t stop the group from some picture-taking.

The 2025 Virginia Wine Year In Review

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If I had to pick three words to summarize the Virginia wine industry in 2025, they would be recovering, rebalancing, and evolving.

‘Recovering’ speaks to the impact two years of drought had on Virginia’s vineyards. A full-scale invasion of the spotted lanternfly (SLF), a difficult (and wet) fruit set, and spring frost further depressed tonnage.

‘Rebalancing’ is a reference to a first-time contraction in the number of tasting rooms in the state. Only 3 new tasting rooms opened in 2025 (a 2-decade low), while 8 closed. Eight new wineries are also open for online sales, despite their tasting rooms not being formally open yet.

The combination of declining wine sales and rising production costs made this rebalancing inevitable. Only time will tell what direction the industry goes from here.

That said, there are still bright spots in the world of Virginia wine. While the number of tasting rooms & overall sales have slipped, the number of ‘Virginia wine brands’ grew.

That’s where the last word, ‘evolving’, comes into play.

Many Virginia wineries are changing how they operate to keep up with the times. This means everything from finding ways to attract non-wine drinkers, making winemaking and ownership more accessible, and (in some cases) moving away from the ‘grown at, produced at” model that has long dominated the industry.

With those factors in mind, Virginia ended 2025 with a total of 280 wineries, 35 cideries, and 11 meaderies, plus 36 wine/cider/mead brands that lack tasting rooms. Here is a link to my winery roster.

* This article is entirely my personal opinion and doesn’t reflect the position of the Virginia Wine Marketing Board or any other entity. You can see my previous “Years In Review” for 2020 – 2024.

Enjoying sparkling at Petit Domaine

Tasting-Rooms that opened in 2025

  1. Bandit Ridge Winery (located in Louisa, wine made at James River)
  2. Petit Domaine (located in Hillsboro; wine presently made off-site but will eventually move in-house)
  3. Catamaran Hills (located in Lovettsville; made at Fabbioli)

New Wineries with still-pending tasting rooms, but with wine for sale

  1. Alla Vita (currently has a pop-up tasting room; full tasting room opening in 2026)
  2. Noer Vineyards (tasting room opening 2026, but wine available for sale)
  3. OH’s Vineyard (tasting room TBD but selling wine at other locations. Made at Walsh Family)
  4. Piedmont Meadows (tasting room opening 2026, but wine available for sale)
  5. Silver Dog Vineyards (tasting room opening 2026, but wine available for sale)
  6. Toll Gate Vineyards (tasting room planned for 2026; wine currently sold at a farmers market. Made at Walsh)
  7. Twisted Pines Farm (tasting room open by appointment, but wine available for sale)
  8. WildKind (tasting room opening 2026, but wine available for sale)
  9. Yapita (tasting room opening by appointment. Wine can be purchased at Early Mountain and select wine stores)

New Micro Brands (typically sold via retail or pop-ups)

  1. Garden GroveHedon State (made at Bull Run. BIPOC owned)
  2. Little River (made at Chrysalis)
  3. Nouveau Farms (made at Commonwealth. BIPOC owned)
  4. Novella Wines (made at Commonwealth. BIPOC owned)
  5. Third Culture Kid (made at Walsh)
  6. Zora Chloe Wines (made at The Wine Collective. BIPOC owned)

Wineries and meaderies that closed in 2025

  1. Castle Glen Estate
  2. Garden Grove
  3. Haley’s Honey Mead
  4. Seven Doors Winery
  5. Stanburn Vineyard
  6. Rock Roadhouse
  7. Triple V
  8. Valhalla Vineyards
  9. Vintner’s Cellar of Yorktown
  10. White Hall Vineyards

2025’s Major Stories and Trends

1. The 2025 Vintage: A challenging start with a strong finish

Vineyards started the growing season parched. When the springtime rains came, the rainfall was initially welcomed.

Then it rained some more. And even more. Several winegrowers I spoke with openly wondered if we were facing a 2018-ish vintage, one of the wettest in decades.

The combination of drought stress, SLF, and rain during bloom collectively suppressed tonnage. Some vineyards are reporting yields are down as far as 50%, especially for early budding varieties such as chardonnay.

Fortunately, a warm & dry second half of the season saved the vintage. Many winegrowers are calling 2025 a high quality/low quantity year.

2. Virginia Wine Industry Experiences Its First Contraction…

Three new wine tasting rooms opened in 2025, while 9 wineries (plus a meadery) closed. This means more winery tasting rooms closed than opened for possibly the first time in the modern history of Virginia wine.

A slowdown was inevitable, especially after three decades of non-stop expansion. Changing consumer tastes (especially younger generations abandoning wine) are the main culprit, but tariffs, retiring owners, and a host of other factors also took their toll.

Given 9 new wineries are currently building tasting rooms, it appears the Virginia wine industry still has room for growth. But it’s safe to say we are entering an era where the number of openings and closings will be more closely balanced.

Rock Roadhouse, we hardly knew ye

3. ….But Micro-Brands Seen Opportunity

2025 was a great year for ‘micro-brands’; a term I use to cover ultra-small batch producers. 6 micro brands opened in 2025; a new annual high for this category.

Many of these micro-brands wouldn’t exist without the availability of ‘wine incubators’. Commonwealth Crush, the Virginia Wine Collective, and Walsh Family Wine have led the way here, but multiple wineries have ‘incubated’ a smaller partner at some point.

Incubators fill a crucial role by giving new wine brands access to space, equipment, and (if necessary) winemaking expertise, which lowers the financial bar for them to join the wine industry. This has been especially beneficial for communities that have traditionally had limited representation in the wine world (notably, 4 of 6 of these new brands are BIPOC owned, and 2 have a female owner or co-owner).

There are benefits to keeping a wine brand small. Unlike larger brick-and-mortar wineries, these micro-brands don’t have tasting rooms to manage or vineyards to worry about. Their smaller footprint also means they can better manage inventory.

Perhaps most importantly, the small batch nature of their model means these owners can take stylistic risks a larger brand may shy away from. This has led to some exciting new wines, such as the “What’s This” vidal blanc/petit manseng/chardonel/tannat blend from The Parallax Project (one of my favorite wines of 2025).

VA wine “Hype Man” Reggie Leonard II pouring “What’s This?”

4. Are More Wineries Embracing Contract Winemaking?

I’m going to be a little controversial here. More places than ever seem to be moving away from the ‘grown at, produced at” model that has long dominated the Virginia wine industry.

My claim is based on data. Only 25% of the 300-ish wineries currently open in Virginia use a contract winemaker. An additional handful rely upon the same small group of consulting winemakers.

Yet if you narrow the data to wineries and wine brands that opened in the past 5 years, nearly half of those (43 out of 92) lack in-house winemaking facilities. Instead, these venues outsource their winemaking to contract winemaker or ‘borrow’ cellar space at another partnering site. Many don’t even have their own vineyards.

Now, I’m not saying this shift is inherently bad. Many wineries don’t have the finances or interest to make wine on-site, manage a vineyard, or operate a tasting room. Micro-brands thrive precisely because they aren’t tethered to such concerns. And who wouldn’t want Nate Walsh or Matthieu Finot to make their wine?

Even so, I’m a little worried over the long-term implications this change portends. If smaller wineries opt to use contract winemakers instead of hiring their own in-house Head Winemaker, this will reduce potential opportunities for new winemakers to enter the business.

Nate Walsh
Matthieu Finot

5. Virginia Wine Wins Big In San Francisco: In 2025 Virginia earned an outsized share of medals at two of the most famous wine competitions in the US; the 2024 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (SFCWC) and 2025 San Francisco International Wine Competition (SFIWC). Virginia wine earned a total of 182 medal, including 38 Gold, 22 Double Gold, and a number of ‘Best in Class’ awards. This for a region that makes less than 0.4% of American wine.

This is especially impressive given many of these awards are in very competitive categories, such as sauvignon blanc and cabernet franc. SFCWC wine judge Mike Dunne said of Virginia’s entries, “Each year, some wine region of North America seems to gain recognition for a disproportionate share of high awards at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. In 2025, it was Virginia”.

These wins are an important way for Virginia to get recognition on the world stage. Click here for a full readout of Virginia’s performance at the SFIWC and SFCWC.

6. More Events, Beer, and Non-Alcoholic Options Than Ever

A growing reliance upon contract winemakers isn’t the only change going on in the industry. Wineries realize that to attract visitors, they need to offer more than just wine.

As best as I can tell, over 30 wineries now serve beer. Many are also offering a wider assortment of low/no-alcoholic beverages. So far Hark Vineyards is still the only winery producing a N/A wine, but I suspect others are looking at similar options.

Events have also spiked. Virginia wineries have gotten very creative in the events they host, offering everything from charcuterie classes, dancing, painting, and more.

Millennials and Gen Z are a tough crowd to sell wine to. If wineries want to survive, they need to learn to cater to this new demographic.

Honorable Mentions

1. My Favorite Wines of 2025: Click here for my Top 10 list for the past year. Not mentioned but close contenders include Glen Manor’s 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2022 Nebbiolo, and Linden’s 2019 Avenius Chardonnay.

2. Wine thieves and drunk raccoons: OK so this isn’t necessarily about “Virginia Wine”, but these ‘wine-adjacent’ events are so humorous I’d be remiss not to mention them.

First, a pair of thieves stole several bottles of high-end Pinot Noir from L’Auberge Provençale, an amazing restaurant in the lower Shenandoah Valley. Months later, a raccoon got wasted at a Virginia liqueur store. The memes from both are priceless, and many wineries were happy to jump on the meme bandwagon.

3. Sign up for online discounts! Slowing sales means more inventory. And more inventory means more online sales. If you want to stock up, sign up to the mailing list of your favorite wineries and see what kind of discounts they offer.

My Favorite Virginia Wines Of 2025

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“Virginia is for (wine) lovers” may not be the official motto for the Virginia wine industry, but it easily could be. The Commonwealth has consistently outshined more famous wine regions, despite making a fraction of the wine they do. Wine writer Mike Dunne, who judged at the 2025 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (SFCWC), said this of Virginia’s entries: “Each year, some wine region of North America seems to gain recognition for a disproportionate share of high awards… in 2025, it was Virginia.”

One of the hallmarks of Virginia wine is its diversity of styles and grape varieties. Cabernet franc and chardonnay are the state’s most widely planted grapes, but Virginia offers everything from albariño to zweigelt.

Two factors shape this diversity: the state’s varied terroir, and a willingness to experiment.

Virginia grows wine everywhere from high-elevation sites in the Blue Ridge Mountains to sandy soils along the Eastern Shore. While the state is arguably a geographic and stylistic middle ground between California and France, winegrowers point out Virginia’s unique growing conditions makes copying either of these areas impractical.

This has led the Virginia wine industry to combine tradition with experimentation. Many winemakers prefer more classic styles that emulate those of the “Old World,” such as Bordeaux or Chablis. Others endorse a more creative approach, sometimes blending grapes normally associated with very different regions of the world.

My personal “Top 10” list reflect this veritable hodgepodge of styles. Several are classic expressions of their variety, while others are uniquely ‘Virginia’ in nature. I’m especially interested in wines with great backstories, or varieties not usually associated with Virginia.

1. Ankida Ridge 2022 Pinot Noir ($65): Many vineyards have tried growing pinot noir in Virginia, but Ankida is the first to prove it can be done well. Key to Ankida’s success is its 1,800’ elevation site along the Blue Ridge Mountains, which guarantees moderate temperature swings and low disease pressure.

This wine had a floral nose, with notes of earth, specifically wet dirt. The wine itself had heft but was still well balanced, with just the right amount of oak, tannin, and structure. It also presented tart fruit notes on the palate.

2. Cave Ridge Vineyard 2023 Pinot Noir ($45): Compared to the Ankida Ridge, this example of a Virginia pinot was somewhat softer and more fruit-forward. It had a great initial ‘attack,’ with notes of red plum and cherry, and a dash of almond or marzipan. This wine is even more impressive given its Cave Ridge’s first vintage (and 2024 promises to be even better).

3. Barrel Oak Winery 2023 Sauvignon Blanc ($35): Sauvignon blanc is found all over Virginia yet rarely gets the recognition it deserves. That changed in 2025, when the SFCWC awarded Virginia sauvignon blancs two of ‘Best in Class’ awards, and a 3rd Virginia sauv blanc earned Double Gold. Veritas won in the $30-$34.99 category, while Barrel Oak took the prize for the $35 – and over category.

BOW’s expression wasn’t initially overly aromatic, but it packed a punch on the palate! It was well balanced, full of ripeness, and unleashed a crescendo of tropical flavors including citrus and lemon on the palate.

4. Veritas Vineyards 2023 Sauvignon Blanc ($26): Comparing this wine with Barrel Oak is a study in contrasts. While the Barrel Oak wine is a riper West Coast style, the Veritas is a more Sancerre-style wine. It showcases a complex array of green apple, grapefruit, lime, and some honey on the palate, and almost begs for a seafood pairing.

5. Barren Ridge Vineyards 2021 Petit Verdot ($36): Petit verdot is valued by winemakers for its overall hardiness in the vineyard, and the body and color it adds to wines in the cellar. This bottle from Barren Ridge was smooth and fruit-forward, with notes of cedar, violet, and especially blueberry. It’s as if the winemaker took every stereotype of what petit verdot should be, but amped them up.

6. Early Mountain Vineyards NV Brut Sparkling ($60): My favorite Virginia sparkling of 2025 is Early Mountain Vineyards’ Brut Sparkling, a blend of 60% chardonnay and 40% pinot gris. Zingy and playful, this wine was full of lemon-citrus notes, with good minerality and a nice finish. I compared this local bubbly with several champagnes, and it was still our overall favorite.

7. Hark Vineyards 2023 Cabernet Franc ($34): The 2023 growing year offered many amazing cabernet francs. So when I say this may be my favorite one of all, that’s high praise. This wine is very approachable already but will cellar for years. I detected aromas of red berries and violets, with red and black cherry and ripe plumb on the palate.

8. Pollak Vineyards 2021 Meritage ($50): How good is this wine? I shared it with a group of DC sommeliers at a blind tasting and half thought it was the event’s Bordeaux wine. A Double Gold winner at the SFCWC, it’s composed of 46% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Franc, and 13% Petit Verdot. Pollak’s red blends are possibly the best-valued Bordeaux-style wines in Virginia.

9. The Parallax Project 2024 “What’s This?” ($30): The Parallax Project is a micro-label that demonstrates what happens when winemakers think ‘outside the box’. This white blend is made from a mix of red and white vinifera and hybrid grapes; 44% vidal blanc, 22% petit manseng, 19% chardonel, and 15% tannat.

‘What’s This?’ has lots of texture, which makes it feel ‘big’ for a white. I found it had bright acidity and a lemon merengue nose. Its counterpart blend, “What’s That?,” uses the same component grapes but made as a red wine.

10. Walsh Family Wine 2021 “What Will The Women Drink?”: If wine competitions gave awards for witty comebacks, “WWTWD” would win hands down. Co-owner Sarah Walsh crafted this big-bodied red wine after a male customer patronizingly implied that females would prefer sweeter beverages. Since then, she’s marketed WWTWD to women and gives a part of its proceeds to women-focused charities.

The 2021 WWTWD is a blend of 45% petit verdot, 40% tannat, and 15% cabernet sauvignon. It’s surprisingly smooth for a tannic blend, with notes of bramble fruit and purple flower on the nose, and black fruit on the palate.

Linden Vineyards December 2025 Library Tastings

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Every December I make a pilgrimage for one of my favorite annual events – Linden’s library tastings.

Linden Vineyards opened in 1987, and owner Jim Law has been careful to hold back a portion of his vintages so he can see how they evolve over time. That’s allowed him to build an extensive wine library, some dating to nearly the founding of Linden. Jim opens up that library every December.

During the Friday I visited, Linden was doing side-by-side tastings of their Boisseau Chardonnay (2014 and 2019), Petit Verdot (2014 and 2016), and Avenius red (2015 and 2019).

Those were great, but the highlight of the day were the ‘bonus pours’ of their 1996 Chardonnay and 2004 Avenius red. Since library wines were for sale, I purchased a 2017 Avenius Chardonnay to share with my group.

Boisseau Chardonnay: Named after Linden’s warmest vineyard, just outside Front Royal. Both vintages were surprisingly fresh and high acid. I typically find Boisseau wines are more hedonistic compared to their higher-acidity cousins at Hardscrabble and Avenius, but the acidity was spot on here. Both wines were really outstanding.

  • 2014 Boisseau. Ripe; lots of green apple, maybe pear? I was told the nose was reminiscent of chamomile tea nose, although I’ll have to take that on trust as I’m not a tea drinker.
  • 2019 Boisseau. More tropical than outright ripe, maybe mango or even a hint of banana.  

Petit Verdot. Petit Verdot is the only red wine Linden consistently labels as a full varietal (on rare occasions they’ll also make a Cabernet Franc). But technically, both of these PVs were blends, even if the vast majority of the juice was Petit Verdot.

These wines were also unique in that both had dashes of Carmenere, a variety that Jim experimented with but tore out because it was under-performing.

  • 2014 Petit Verdot (88% Petit Verdot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 4% Carmenere). Fruit forward. The 12% blending soften it up a bit, so this isn’t a ‘slap you in the face with a blueberry’ PV. I had some sediment at the end.
  • 2016 Petit Verdot (94% Petit Verdot, 3% Merlot and 3% Carmenere). Another soft expression of PV, but for a different reason. While the 2014 was made in neutral oak barrels, this was made in steel to deemphasize the tannin. Jammy, with raspberry notes.

Avenius red. This is Linden’s highest and coolest site. Lately, Avenius wines have been my favorites in side-by-side comparisons, partially because they are more ‘serious’ than wines made from Boisseau (although that 2014 Boisseau was excellent) but can be enjoyed younger than  Hardscrabble.

  • 2015 Avenius. Lots of earth with very faint fruit. I have a bottle I should try soon-ish if I’m to find those fruit notes.
  • 2019 Avenius. The primary was there, although it was starting to explore those tertiary notes. I had a bottle in March and my notes then mentioned black fruit and high acidity. I didn’t get as much fruit this time though.

“Bonus pours”

  • 1996 Chardonnay. This was all Hardscrabble fruit, although this was before the time when Linden had separate vineyards. The nose was nutty, and reminded me of a petit manseng. Nutty, caramel palate; layered. I’m in awe that a white wine could last nearly 30 years; I love ‘old’ chardonnays, and would absolutely try this again.
  • 2004 Avenius red. Tart cherry. I wouldn’t call it ‘fresh’ but it wasn’t nearly as faded as you’d expect from a wine that’s over 20 years old. One member of my group mentioned it had an almost balsamic quality to it.
  • 2017 Avenius Chardonnay. I hadn’t had this wine in a long time! Very full, even a little bit tropical.

Exploring Oregon Wine: Trisaetum Pinot Noir and Pashey Sparkling

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2025 was the year I began my deep dive into Oregon wine, specifically the Willamette Valley American Vinicultural Area (AVA). I knew Oregon is the 5th largest wine-producing state in the US, and this particular AVA is synonymous with pinot noir. Unfortunately, that was the extent of my knowledge.

I soon learned how terroir-specific Willamette wines can be. The larger Willamette Valley AVA alone has 11 smaller AVAs embedded within its borders, each with their own unique terroir (by comparison, Napa has 16 sub-AVAs, yet produces more than 10 x as much wine).

I also didn’t realize Oregon is an up-and-coming sparkling wine producer, with production more than doubling since 2022. To better promote this trend, in July 2025 Oregon producers banded together for the inaugural launch of “Method Oregon”, which featured over 50 sparkling wines made in the Méthode Traditionnelle.

One winery that showcases both of these revelations is Trisaetum Winery, located about an hour SW of Portland. Trisaetum also makes sparkling wine under its Pashey Wine portfolio.

While the winery is in the Ribbon Ridge AVA, Trisaetum also has vineyards in the Dundee Hills and Yamhill-Carton AVAs. They make both vineyard-specific wines and ones that combine all three sites, with pinot, riesling, and chardonnay planted at each (plus some gamay at Ribbon Ridge, and pinot meunier at their Yamhill-Carton site).

Founder James Frey must get a lot of inspiration from his family, since he named both labels after family members. “Trisaetum” is a merger of the names of his two children, Tristen and Tatum. “Pashey” is named after his grandmother, a Romani woman who accepted exile from her community so she could marry James’ grandfather (her photo is tagged to the cork).

My friends and I enjoyed two wines from Trisaetum; their 2023 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, and their 2021 Pashey Estate Cuvée sparkling.

2023 Willamette Valley Pinot

This bottle is one of Triseatum’s multi-AVA wine. We found it had a ripe-sweet nose with notes of cranberry or purple flower, perhaps accompanied by some black or red cherry, even candied plums.

I thought it had a light earthy palate with soft notes fruit, especially those candied plums again. Those fruit notes were backed by silky smooth tannins, a good mid palate, and some spice notes to accompany a long, persistent finish.

Wine critics note that Oregon pinot is reminiscent of Burgundy, but I think that’s both a compliment and a crutch. I think wines like this demonstrate Oregon doesn’t need the validation of being compared with Burgundy, no matter how high a praise that may be.

Winemaking details: 57% whole cluster press (for added tannin), aged 10 months in 17% new French oak, blended from fruit from all three estate vineyards.

Photo credit: Trisaetum Winery

2021 Pashey Estates Cuvée

This wine is red fruit driven, on the nose and palate. For me, raspberries were prominent on the initial ‘attack’, with a finish that was more mineral driven. My friends had additional notes of their own, with notes of chalk or allspice thrown in.

The winemaker was extremely restrained on the dosage. If you prefer very dry sparkling wines, this is a great choice (I later looked it up and was unsurprised it was only 3.0 grams per liter).

Winemaking details: 72% pinot noir, 14% chardonnay, 14% pinot meunier sourced from all three estate vineyards. It had 3.0 g/L, putting it in the Extra Brut range (translation: it’s pretty darn dry).

One downside of living in Virginia is small west coast producers don’t have a lot of local distribution, so your best bet is to purchase online.

Virginia vs Champagne Blind Sparkling Showdown (2025)

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Virginia is enjoying a sparkling wine renaissance, especially in NOVA. A sparkling wine house named Petit Domaine recently opened in Loudoun, Stinson Vineyards has recently introduced a sparkling label named Lido Deck, and Stone Tower now has an entire facility dedicated to producing bubbly. These are just a few data points on what looks to be a shift from lower-cost sparkling formats such as pet-nats and charmat-style wine to higher-end, more ‘champagne’-style sparkings.

“High end” may be a bold statement. Champagne is still the default setting for high-end sparkling wine, and Virginia’s terroir is radically different from the world’s most famous sparkling region.

Moreover, I still think many Virginia sparkling producers are still tweaking their game. With the exception of a few standouts (looking at you, Thibault-Janisson, Trump Winery, and Veritas), most Virginia sparkling producers have only recently joined the ‘méthode traditionnelle’ club.

Even so, many VA sparklings are impressive, something I attribute to how Virginia performs well when it does its own thing. Virginia makes everything from sparkling Viognier from Horton, sparkling Rieslings, terroir-based Blanc de Noirs from the Blue Ridge and Shenandoah Valley, as well as more classic Blanc de Blanc or Brut wines using grapes associated with Champagne.

Most of these higher-end bottles price around $60, with Early Mountain Vineyards and Trump Winery amongst the most notable producers in this price range. Consumers can also find good quality $35-40 bottles from Thibault-Janisson, King Family, and broader cast of wineries.

Tasting & Scoring Methodology

A group of friends & I blind tasted 8 wines in 4 flights. All the flights were bagged.

To make it even more challenging, we mixed the French and Virginia wines up. This meant our rounds included France vs Virginia, Virginia vs Virginia, or France vs France, all depending on luck of the draw. After the last pairing, we voted on a “Top 2” from these 8 to go into the finalist round (as a last-minute change I added the 3rd favorite to join these finalists).

This mixing had the unexpected benefit of preventing us from obsessing over “Which is Virginia?”. We ended up spending more time on the actual wine, and less worrying where it came from.

I didn’t use a fancy scoring system. I did ask which was the favorite per round, but the goal was always to choose the “Top 2” of the day.

When I created this event, I specified the French sparklings be in the ~$50 range (although one of them was in the ~$70 range) and the Virginia bottles in the ~$60 range. This meant the comparing French bottles were lower-end champagnes and one higher-end cremant. I gave Virginia a higher price-point to account for how these are more boutique operations.

I figured this price range would even the playing field, keeping out the higher-end Champagnes but still having some strong contenders.

I ultimately selected 12 Ridges, Early Mountain Vineyards, Eastwood Farm (using a sparkling made by Thibault-Janisson), and Ankida Ridge, since these haven’t been in my earlier blinds.

All the participating bottles made in the traditional method, although the blends often differed.

The Contenders

  1. Crémant du Jura “Harmonie” by Domaine Pierre Richard (Jura; 100% Chardonnay; ~$30)
  2. Ankida Ridge Brut (Virginia; 50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay; $70)
  3. Champagne Gallimard Quintessence (Champagne; 100% Chardonnay; ~$47)
  4. Trouillard Brut Extra Selection (Champagne; blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier; $45)
  5. Early Mountain Brut Sparkling (Virginia; 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Gris; $60)
  6. Chartogne-Taillet Cuvée Sainte Anne Brut NV (Champagne; 45% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier; ~$75)
  7. Eastwood Blanc de Blancs (Virginia; 100% Chardonnay; $40)
  8. 12 Ridges Brut (Virginia; 55% Pinot Gris, 45% Chardonnay, ~$65)

Flight #1

  • Bottle #1: Crémant du Jura “Harmonie” by Domaine Pierre Richard (0 votes)
  • Bottle #2: Ankida Ridge Brut (7 votes)

Our opening round was France vs Virginia. I wish the Ankida had gone up against a higher price point wine, but such is the nature of blind tastings that it randomly went up against the cheapest French wine in our group.

Bottle #1/Crémant du Jura “Harmonie“ by Domaine Pierre Richard: Lots of apple notes, including bruised apple, specifically yellow or green apple. Someone mentioned it was soft; maybe even tropical. Lower acidity. It was “pithy” and had a shorter finish.

Everything about this wine was on the up-front ‘attack’. If anything, it reminded me more of a sparkling cider than a sparkling wine.

Bottle #2/Ankida Ridge Brut: There was some funkiness on the nose initially, but that soon blew off. This wine had a longer finish, and presented as tart, with notes of toasty white bread, maybe back by some oak. We also found orchard and pear notes. Someone mentioned a hint of nutmeg.

#2 was higher in acidity than #1 but was not a tremendously high-acid wine. It was structured and ‘old world’ in nature. This also had a big initial ‘attack’, which isn’t the style some of us enjoyed. Comparatively speaking, we enjoyed this much more than #1.

I will say that while we *liked* this wine, we didn’t *love* it initially. We later discovered it needed time to open up, which made all the difference. When we re-tasted, especially with food, we liked this wine far more.

Flight #2

  • Bottle #3: Champagne Gallimard Quintessence (0 votes)
  • Bottle #4: Trouillard Brut Extra Selection (7 votes)

This round was a Champagne vs Champagne event. We enjoyed these two wines more than the previous round, at least on the first sips (although we later decided we enjoyed Ankida Ridge’s Brut more than the Gallimard).

#3 was a softer expression of sparkling wine; more like the kind of wine you bring to a party that everyone will likely enjoy it.

Bottle #3/Champagne Gallimard Quintessence: Blue cheese-like nose? This wine was YEASTY, almost pungent. Someone mentioned “antibiotics on steroids” on the palate. Another mentioned caramel corn or butter. Another said it had a bruised apple nose. Maybe notes of yellow apple on the palate.

On the flip side it had good balance, plus was fresh and clean. Everything was ‘up front’ for this wine.

Bottle #4/Trouillard Brut Extra Selection: Notes of ginger. Lots of positive notes including balanced, elegant, and layered. Flinty. Someone mentioned notes of strudel or pastry. Bright, maybe some honey on the nose. Another mentioned this was red fruit-driven.

This bottle also had more of the traditional autolytic characteristics you’d expect in Champagne, something we hadn’t seen thus far. We suspect it had a bit of age to it as well.

Flight #3

  • Bottle #5: Early Mountain Brut Sparkling (7 votes)
  • Bottle #6: Chartogne-Taillet Cuvée Sainte Anne Brut NV (0 votes)

The bubbles on both of these were FROTHY, especially #5. This was probably our highest-rated round of the day, although in this pairing we universally favored #5/Early Mountain.

Bottle #5/Early Mountain Brut Sparkling: Zingy; very bubbly and lively. Lemon-citrus notes; someone mentioned dragon fruit. Notes of citrus, but a ripe citrus. Good minerality and nice finish. Someone guessed it may have gone through a partial malolactic fermentation, but just a guess.

This was also a crowd pleaser of a wine, although it had lots of positive notes for wine snobs. One guest described this wine as ‘playful’, and I think that was the best description so far.

Bottle #6/Chartogne-Taillet Cuvée Sainte Anne Brut NV: Yeasty. Notes of pair; anise was also mentioned. High acidity and very bright. Notes of baking spice, even smoke, was mentioned. It seemed slightly on the higher alcohol side.

The flavor profile was very up front. Very rich; maybe backed by some oak? But overall, this wine was defined by its acidity. This was the most expensive Champagne of the day, so I’m glad it was compared to the EMV.

Flight #4

  • Bottle #7: Eastwood Blanc de Blancs (2 votes)
  • Bottle #8: 12 Ridges Brut (5 votes)

This round was Virginia vs Virginia. It also compared two very different wines; a moderately-priced Blanc de Blanc vs a higher price point from a unique vineyard situated at 3,300’ feet elevation.

Bottle #7/Eastwood Blanc de Blancs: Deep straw color. At least one guest mentioned a “fresh bread nose”. Several mentioned notes of spice, even turmeric. It was heavier bodied; maybe with a popcorn-quality to it. We suspected this might have been made in a warmer climate.

Initially we didn’t love this wine, but as it opened up we started to appreciate the richness of it more.

Bottle #8/12 Ridges Brut: Very clean and balanced, with a nice finish. Citrus palate. Good floral notes; reminded us of fresh flowers, even dried flowers.

One guest described it as a ‘baby champagne’, since it had all the notes you’d want in a champagne, but they were still learning to express themselves. Lots of potential here. Maybe it needs more time.

Finalist Round

  • Bottle #2: Ankida Ridge Brut (3rd place)
  • Bottle #4: Trouillard Brut Extra Selection (2nd place)
  • Bottle #5: Early Mountain Brut Sparkling (1st place; overall winner)

I asked my guests for their “Top 3” favorites. I used data to narrow it down to two finalists, which we would retry.

Top 3 going into the finalist (but not the actual final vote)

  • Chrisa: #4 (Trouillard) / #5 (Early Mountain) /#2 (Ankida Ridge)
  • Jen: #4 (Trouillard) / #5 (Early Mountain) /#3 (Gallimard Quintessence)
  • Kathy: #5 (Early Mountain) / #4 (Trouillard) / #2 (Ankida Ridge)
  • Lieven: #4 (Trouillard) / #5 (Early Mountain) /#3 (Gallimard Quintessence)
  • Matt: #4 (Trouillard) / #5 (Early Mountain) /#3 (12 Ridges)
  • Sarah: #5 (Early Mountain) / #4 (Trouillard) / #2 (Ankida Ridge)
  • Warren: #4 (Trouillard) / #5 (Early Mountain) /#3 (Gallimard Quintessence)

#4/Trouillard and #5/Early Mountain Vineyard were universally our top 2 picks. But picking a 3rd choice was difficult because these 3rd choices were a very distant preferences to the Top 2. I struggled to find a clear 3rd favorite myself.

Then I did something I’ve never done before. We put #4/Trouillard and #5/Early Mountain aside and started sipping the remainder of the wines. At that point, I realized #2/Ankida Ridge had totally changed.

At this point the Ankida was practically a different wine. So much so that if this was how it initially tasted, I may have selected this over one of my other picks. We liked it so much I put it into the finalist round, making it a trio of ‘finalists’.

After our food break we did a final tasting and voted. Here was the breakdown.

Finalist round (Listed as the judge’s Favorite, Second Favorite, and Third Favorite)

  • Chrisa: #5 (Early Mountain) / #4 (Trouillard) / #2 (Ankida Ridge)
  • Jen: #5 (Early Mountain) / #4 (Trouillard) / #2 (Ankida Ridge)
  • Kathy: #5 (Early Mountain) / #4 (Trouillard) / #2 (Ankida Ridge)
  • Lieven: #5 (Early Mountain) / #4 (Trouillard) / #2 (Ankida Ridge)
  • Matt: #5 (Early Mountain) / #4 (Trouillard) / #2 (Ankida Ridge)
  • Sarah: #5 (Early Mountain) / #4 (Trouillard) / #2 (Ankida Ridge)
  • Warren: #4 (Trouillard) / #5 (Early Mountain) / #2 (Ankida Ridge)

Several guests who initially voted for #4 switched to #5 (Early Mountain). I’m not sure if the Early Mountain got better or the Trouillard started dying off. But we just loved Early Mountain even more in the finalist round.

Early Mountain’s Brut was the event winner.

Lessons Learned

I admit it; I wasn’t sure how this would play out. Topping Champagne in the sparkling category is a tall order. I made sure to exclude super high-end Champagnes to even the playing field, but even Champagne’s $50-range should have been hard to beat.

So imagine my surprise when Virginia came in with the 2 of the top 3, including the winner.

I have to give credit where credit is due. Early Mountain Vineyards makes exceptional wine. While it’s not known as a sparkling house, good winemaking goes a long way, so I shouldn’t be *too* surprised.

Ankida Ridge is another exceptional producer, plus they also have a very unique terroir. That shined through here. I love that the Vroomans came in as our 3rd pick.

When it comes to good sparkling, I’m a believer that there is a measurable difference between what you get in the $50-range vs the $75-range. This event gives me confidence that Virginia can compete against these lower to mid-priced Champagnes.

Fall Foliage in Virginia Wine Country

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Fall is one of the most popular times to visit Virginia wine country. While the season has everything from wine festivals, new vintage release parties, and harvest dinners, my favorite activity is to combine winery visits with a tour of Virginia’s fall foliage.

The two themes overlap perfectly. Vineyards are generally located at higher elevation sites, guaranteeing great photos of the surrounding countryside. Many are also near state or national parks. The addition of fall colors guarantees the slogan “Grapes don’t grow in ugly places” becomes doubly accurate.

Different parts of Virginia will reach their peak color anywhere between mid-October and early November, according to Explorefall.com.

For ‘leaf peepers’ who want to get the most out of fall foliage in Virginia wine country, here is a guide on where and when to go.

Mid to Late October: The Shenandoah Valley

Peak foliage season begins in the Shenandoah Valley, Virginia’s oldest wine region. The valley’s relatively cool and dry climate create ideal conditions for viticulture, and the mountains that frame the area become a canvas for the season’s changing colors.

While the Shenandoah Valley is home to a dozen wineries, two that particularly stand out for their fall colors are Muse Vineyards and Star in the Valley.

Muse Vineyards (Woodstock). Muse issnuggled between the contours of the North Fork of the Shenandoah River, Seven Bends State Park, and the western slope of the Massanutten Mountains. While the best views are likely to be found from their deck, more adventurous wine drinkers should visit the elevated foot bridge that crosses the river.

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Make sure to try their Erato white blend, winner of the 2024 Shenandoah Wine Cup.

Star in the Valley (Strasburg). Star is located along the edge of the valley’s northern entrance, hugging the contours of Devil’s Backbone State Forest. At 1,000-feet it’s also one of the higher elevation vineyards in the area, guaranteeing great views.

This elevation is one of the reasons Star founded the “Peak Shenandoah” wine trail, which includes a half-dozen wineries likewise situated around Shenandoah Park. While my favorite wine is their cabernet franc, visitors should also join one of Star’s periodic star-gazing events.

Late October to early November: Northern Virginia

Peak foliage will reach Northern Virginia in late October. While Shenandoah National Park is arguably the region’s most popular fall destination, smart travelers can avoid these crowds by visiting any combination of wineries and smaller parks in the surrounding area.

Barrel Oak Winery and Brewery (Delaplane). “BOW” isn’t just the winery’s initials; it’s also a reference to how it’s one of the most dog friendly venues in the state. BOW’s location near Sky Meadows State Park gives foliage travelers extra incentive to visit here in the fall.

Those who haven’t visited recently will be wowed by their revamped wine list. Start with their 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, which a panel of judges at the 2024 San Francisco Chronicle decreed as one of the best wines at the event.

Breaux Vineyards (Loudoun Valley). Breaux’s location between Catoctin Mountain and the Blue Ridge isn’t just scenic, it creates a microclimate that facilitates viticulture. This is one of the reasons nebbiolo, a grape commonly associated with Italy’s Piedmont region, can thrive here.

Visitors looking for additional foliage pictures can visit historic Harper’s Ferry or Sweet Run State Park, both a short drive away.

Twin Oaks Tavern Winery (Bluemont). Twin Oaks already boasts one of the best views in Virginia, with or without fall foliage. Its proximity to Bear’s Den Scenic Lookout makes it packed with extra opportunities for leaf peeping.

The winery’s name comes from its history as a mountain retreat for Washingtonians looking to beat the summer heat. The opening of the Little Acorn Cottage Airbnb on the property allows travelers to continue this tradition.

Beginning of November: Amherst and the Shenandoah Foothills

The start of November is typically the pinnacle of fall foliage season, so save the best for last. Two exceptional locations to see these colors are Ankida Ridge and DuCard Vineyards.

Ankida Ridge Vineyards (Amherst). Ankida’s perch at 1,800 ft makes it one of the highest elevation vineyards in Virginia. This unique microclimate allows them to grow pinot noir, a grape so difficult to cultivate, it has acquired the nickname “The Heartbreak Grape”.

Owner Christine Vrooman’s hospitality may make it unlikely visitors would want to leave. If they do, be sure to visit Chimney Rock Mountain Overlook, part of the Blue Ridge Parkway.

DuCard Vineyards (Eltan). DuCard offers views of Shenandoah National Park without the need to fight for space on Skyline Drive. Its location near both Old Rag Mountain and White Oak Canyon, two of Virginia’s most famous hiking trails, makes it a guaranteed hotspot for fall foliage.

Visitors who don’t want to relax with DuCard’s award-winning 2024 Rosé can easily visit Shenandoah National Park via its Thorton Gap entrance, which is guaranteed to be less busy than the more famous gate at Front Royal.

Virginia Wine Month Insert:

October is when local wineries celebrate Virginia Wine Month. Here are a few favorite activities:

For additional suggestions on offerings and events, see https://www.virginiawine.org/virginia-wine-month.