I visited Silver Dog Vineyards when it opened for a sneak-peak in late July. I emphasize ‘sneak peak’ because the interior of the tasting room is still under construction, but the wine and patio are ready for guests.

Anyone who’s been wine tasting near Linden has likely heard of Silver Dog, given its vineyard is visible from Fiery Run Road. In fact, I’d say Silver Dog is arguably in the best ‘winery neighborhood’ in Virginia, given Linden Vineyards, Capstone, Crimson Lane, and Accord (former Fox Meadow) are each under 10 minutes away.

This isn’t by accident. I asked owner Eric Gronning how he found this site, and he was up front that he wanted to be in the same neighborhood as Jim Law, one of his inspirations for Virginia wine.

Eric purchased this 18-acres hilltop farm in 2018 from a local attorney. Not only does the farm have steep slopes and elevation, but it already had an acre of vines.

The backstory of the name is Eric made a deal with his wife Lori that if they purchased the vineyard then she got to name it. The logical choice was to name it after their dog Silver, because ‘he was the best.’

The two planted the vines long before the tasting room started construction, so they opened with their own wine. Silver Dog currently has 9 acres of vines, mostly Bordeaux reds plus Chardonnay, Petit Manseng, and Barbera.

All of these, plus Sagrantino, a high-tannin, medium acidity Italian grape indigenous to Central Italy. This may be Virginia’s first commercial planting of this varietal.

Wait – what?

I needed to know more, so I asked Eric and winemaker Shai Van Gelder for more details.

Eric explained he picked Sagrantino because it’s one of his favorite varietals from Italy, having been to Umbria many times. Shai had high praise for this grape, although its tannic nature (on par or greater than Tannat) can make it rather aggressive. Linden Vineyards also has a trial block, so maybe this grape will find a home here.

Silver Dog is aiming for around 1,200 cases/year, all estate fruit. While their current lineup has 4 wines, there are several more (including a reserve red blend, a full Sagrantino, and Barbera) that aren’t on the tasting menu yet.

Granted Silver Dog’s tasting room isn’t finished but given Eric’s architectural background I’m expecting it to be stunning when completed. It helps that they already have an amazing view.

When they reopen in September they will do so with a full kitchen, since food service will be an integral part of the experience.

What we tried:

• 2023 Chardonnay, made in new oak and stainless-steel tanks. I thought it was tart but could sense the fruit. Shai said he was originally aiming for it to be more Burgundian but ended more along a Chablis.
• 2024 Petit Manseng: This wine had texture but not to the degree that I’m accustomed from most PMs. Dry with tropical notes, including lemon and diluted pineapple. Shai said he pressed the fruit super light to avoid phenolics.
• 2024 Rosé: 70/30 blend of Cab Sauv and Barbera, made using the saignée (bleed off) method for a richer profile. Notes of sour cherry and cranberry.
• 2023 Rock Island (red blend using Barbera, Cab S., Petit Verdot, and Sagrantino): It had some tannin but I mostly remember its long finish. Plenty of fruit notes (especially black fruit), and maybe a little tart. It was fruity enough that we could drink it outside, despite it being a warm day (it also can pair with spicy food)

I enjoyed all the wines, but felt the Rock Island was the star of the show (and I got a bottle). Shai insisted that while Rock Island is designed to be soulful and fruity, his upcoming red blend will be even better.

Silver Dog is reservations only, and only open in July and August 2026 before temporarily closing again.