Amazing wines, especially given how small & out of the way they are. 3 acres of vines and under 1000 cases/year. Obviously they don’t get a lot of visitors so call in advance.
Getting to this place is a challenge. Don’t expect to find any signal, so pre-plan your route as best you can. Their website has directions so that helps a lot.
The name comes from an old native American story about a princess who took a nose dive off a cliff. Well, who knows? What I can tell you is the terroir is very conducive to most vinifera; they adroitly placed their Cabernet Sauvignon on the hottest slopes and have some other vines you don’t normally see, like Tannat and Refosco. Refosco particularly fascinated me; it’s one of the oldest grapes still used to make wine, going back to the Roman days. And speaking of Romans, Gabrielle Rausse is a friend of theirs!
The owners Mary and Dave Vermillion greeted me as I walked up. As Mary poured, Dave gave me the backstory of their farm. They actually work in Charlottesville, but call this home. The weekend I visited he was all set to start selling his “Livia” refosco wine, but forgot the labels! I guess I’ll have to visit them another time for that.
What I tried:
Gruner Veltiner: German grape you don’t see often. Nice citrus notes; I almost bought a bottle but got distracted by…
2012 Cabernet Sauvignon: 90% cab sav with some tannat. Overall medium tannin although the Tannat gave it some bite at the end.
2014 Cabernet Sauvignon: 100%, very nice body & complexity. I’ll drink this in another year or two.
“Livia” red blend: Primarily refosco w/ Cab Franc. I almost bought a bottle, but settled for a bottle of the last two. But I did enjoy a glass.
Virginia wineries tend to be a good distance from me. But this place was a special journey. In the mountains that separate West Virginia and Virginia, Cedar Creek is about as hidden away as a winery can get.
Owner Ron Schmidt purchased the land in 1999 and started growing grapes at the suggestion of a friend. He didn’t know anything about viticulture or wine making at the time – everything was ‘OJT’, if you will. But he unwittingly picked a fantastic location for vines. At 1,100 feet it has great elevation, and the fieldstone gives good drainage. It’s also in one of the driest parts of Virginia, so this place is a win all around. Not coincidentally, Sunset Hills owns some land nearby for a vineyard of its own.
His 5 acres is all Chardonnay and (mostly) Cabernet Franc. The tasting room is tiny; it’s more a showcase for his memorabilia than anything else. While you can bring food, this is definitely an appointment-only tasting experience. Ron used to sell his grapes, but when they started winning awards he decided to get into the wine making business himself.
The tasting was nothing except different flights of Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc from different years. Every vintage had its own character, so it was a delight to do them side by side.
2011 Chardonnay: Made in steel & some oak. Pretty good
2012 Chardonnay: Lots of granny apple notes
2014 Chardonnay: Crisp & good acid
2009 Cabernet Franc: Lots of black cherry
2010 Cabernet Franc: As you would expect from a good growing year, very big with lots of tannin
2011 Cabernet Franc: This was the shocker of the bunch. 2011 was a hurricane year so the wines tend to be very light. But this was absolutely outstanding. Low on tannin as well.
2014 Cabernet Franc: Young, tiny bit jammy but will get better with age.
The first time I visited Big Cork it was easy to see this was different from the farm-turn-winery setup I usually find in Maryland. With 31 acres of vines and a very modern looking tasting room, they are among not only the most posh wineries in Maryland, but on either side of the Potomac. I hadn’t even tasted the wine, and I was already impressed.
Although open only since Jan 2015, it seems to have avoided the teething problems newer wineries often have. To Big Cork’s credit, they laid down their vines years in advance, so the vast majority of their grapes are estate. They even convinced winemaker Dave Collins to cross the river from Breaux and join them.
The site’s location is no accident. Nestled between the Blue Ridge mountains and another ridgeline, Big Cork enjoys the same favorable growing conditions many of its immediate Virginia neighbors have. To find their vineyard, imagine Loudoun Valley as a wine bottle laying on its side; Hillsborough is the southern base, Breaux and half a dozen wineries form a line in the middle, and on top you’ll find (pun semi-intended) Big Cork.
As befitting a vineyard with about a dozen varietals, the wine list is really diverse. Petit Verdot, Mablec, and Cabernet Franc (Cab Sav is absent) are the flagship reds, but they have lots of company. Lucky for me, Dave allowed me to sample pretty much everything on the menu, and I found several that I seldom or never see elsewhere. A big tasting makes writing notes more challenging…but I think I was up for the task.
For dry whites, Big Cork has the obligatory Viognier (they
are next to Virginia after all) – 70% French Oak & the rest steel –
which tasted of honeysuckle and honey. The Sav Blanc was citrusy with more of a
melon nose.
For reds, there was a lot to love, and (as a very biased red
drinker) the real reason to visit. First up to bat as the
Merlot; fruity nose, raspberry palate, light-medium body. Then came the
Malbec and the Syrah; the Malbec was somewhat soft and rustic, while the Syrah
had a slight pepperiness that would make for a good food wine. Next was
the Nebbiolo – bold spicy nose and body, and something I’m sad only a handful
of vineyards have.
Rounding out the reds were the Meritage, Barberra, and
Petit Verdot. I was surprised by the Meritage; at first I thought it was light
and a little spicy, but the fruit came on strong as it spread over my tongue.
The Barberra was low in tannins, and likewise was initially strong but
softened quickly. But my fav was the 2013 Petit Verdot – not coincidentally the
Maryland Governor’s Cup winner – which was much softer and more velvety than
I’m accustomed to for this varietal.
While I’m usually not a sweet or desert wine drinker, they had several that pleasantly surprised me. By far most unique wine on the roster was the Russian Kiss; a semi-sweet mix of Muscat Canelli and a Russian hybrid grape of which they are the sole commercial grower in the USA. Rounding out the list was the Vidal Ice made in an ice wine style, and the Black Cap raspberry port style. The Black Cap is very different as ports go, because it didn’t have the overpowering alcohol flavor I usually associate with ports. Think of it as more of a desert wine than port, and something non-port drinkers would likely enjoy.
Big Cork is still growing. While presently they ‘only’ make 4,000 cases/year, the owners plan to eventually produce around 10,000/year. And if they are this good now, I can only imagine what the wines will be like in a few more years. But regardless, I’d be quite content to sit back on one of the couches on the patio and enjoy the Petit Verdot.
Ankida is one heck of a road trip. Located in the Blue Ridge Mountains, at 1700 feet it is also one of the highest elevations of any Virginia winery outside Appalachia. Suffice to say, you won’t see many casual tourists here. Pay close attention to the directions they post on their website; GPSs aren’t a lot of help. Then just keep following the road past the ‘end of state maintenance’ and go up…and up…and up…
View from the deck
Initially nobody seemed home, but eventually owner/winemaker Nathan Vrooman heard my car and was kind enough to open the tasting room. As he poured, he gave me the low down on the wines.
The name “Ankida” is Sumerian for ‘where heaven and earth join’. It’s an apt description; the view is magnificent. Nathan’s parents purchased the property without thinking of making it into a vineyard. But when they did plant, they discovered this is one of the best locations in all Virginia for Pinot Noir.
The tasting room is new-ish; his parents were actually in a festival selling their wines. But they do have the occasional event for wine enthusiasts who want to enjoy the view with a good pinot.
What I tried:
Chardonnay: Very good; both toasty and creamy. I can see why this has won so many awards.
2012 Rockbridge Rouge Bordeaux blend: Very earthy
Vin Doux port-style made with Chambourcin: Reminded me more of a tawny port than a ruby port; bought a bottle
“Vert” Vidal Blanc: My notes fail me so I can only assume I neither liked or disliked it, although Vidal Blancs are always a hard sell for me.
Drum roll…
Pinot Noir: Best of the bunch, and some critics would say this is Virginia’s best Pinot. This grape needs a high altitude to grow well, so few VA wineries can do it. But Ankida’s location is perfect for it, and it shows in the results.
If you can only visit a handful of Civil War locations, this should be one of them. Appomattox is a historically accurate reconstruction on the foundations of the original village. But the real attraction is the storytelling of the guides, who tie together the ‘big picture’ of Lee’s surrender to smaller human stories connected to the grounds. It’s a well spent $10 vehicle fee.
You start at a visitors center, where you see historical artifacts and have the option of viewing a short film. But the highlight is the home of the McLean family, where the surrender took place. While the home is a reconstruction, NPS painstakingly recreated it, even retrieving original furniture from the descendants of various treasure hunters (many of them senior Union officers present at the surrender).
As I was an early arrival, I got a private tour of the house from an OUTSTANDING volunteer. If you’re reading this I assume you already know the momentous events that occurred here. But what made it special were the human interest stories that you’ll never hear anywhere else. A few of my favorites:
1) Wilmer McLean’s story that the war “started in his front yard and ended in his front parlor” isn’t 100% accurate. Actually, his wife Virginia Mason owned considerable property in Virginia, and she had a pre-nup spelling out what was ‘hers’. The McLean house in Manassas that suffered damage from the first Civil War battle actually belonged to her. So it’s more accurate to say the war “started in his WIFE’S front yard and ended in THEIR front parlor”.
2) One of the McLean children left a doll in the parlor where the surrender was conducted. Union officers joked it was a ‘silent witness’, and one absconded with it (one of many ‘souvenirs’ taken from the McLeans). Fortunately the original doll is now on display in the museum.
3) One sad story is the fate of Thomas Tibbs, a Confederate soldier from Appomattox. After Tibbs was paroled (like the rest of Lee’s army), he walked down the road to his parents house – the shortest walk home of any Confederate soldier. Unfortunately after 4 years of warfare he only knew the life of a soldier, and eventually joined the (now united) US Army. Ironically, his commanding officer was the infamous George Armstrong Custer, who also fought at Appomattox. Both died fighting in the Indian Wars.
Moorehead City is a great diving destination. I don’t have a lot of diving notes but plenty of photos.
The wrecks are huge so you don’t feel claustrophobic. I dove several, but the only wrecks I can identify with my photos are the Spar, Aeolis, and U-352.
The USS Spar was a Coast Guard vessel which now rests at 110 feet. I think those are sand sharks.
USS Spar
USS Spar
But the highlight of the trip is U-352, a German sub which was sunk on May 9, 1942. It sits at 115 feet.
It’s often difficult to get good photos of U-352 since its especially cloudy, but I did get these nice videos.
Last but not least is the wreck of the Aeolus, a cable line layer which rests at around 120 feet. No real notes or other photos for this one.
When you’re a WW II history buff AND you’re into diving, Chuuk lagoon (formerly known as Truk) is the place to go. It took me a good 18 hours to get there (from home to Hawaii, Hawaii to Guam, Guam to Chuuk). Hands down, it was my favorite diving trip ever.
On May 17th I boarded the diving boat Odyssey and started a 7 night trip. The skipper was an American, but a good part of the crew were locals with a few foreign nationals (Aussies and a few Europeans). The trip cost $2795 per person double occupancy plus airfare. I supposed I could have gotten a larger room, but I was saving for the next trip so this suited me just fine.
In terms of diving, you definitely get your money’s worth. The trip is 7 nights, with the 1st day all travel and two morning dives on the last day, returning on the 23rd. In between we typically had 5 dives a day, often two on the same wreck plus a night dive. All told, I did 21 dives.
Most but not all dives were on wrecks. Occasionally we’d see some WW II debris on the ocean floor and just putter around. But the really fun ones were wreck dives.
Of the wreck dives, most were penetration dives. Usually, we just lightly penetrated the outermost superstructure, usually the bridge or a hold that was wide open. But on a few occasions, we went deep inside the structure to places like the engine room – much farther than I’d ever penetrated a wreck before. It’s not for the faint of heart!
Luckily for me, I only got ‘lost’ once, when I turned around to take pictures only to learn that my diving buddy had already taken off. It was NOT a fun experience to find yourself all lonely in a wreck, but I just ‘followed the light’ and made my way out.
The majority of the wrecks were merchant marine ships, but we saw a handful of military vessels. We also had lunch on one of the islands – the sole time we went on land (outside of standing on a sandbar).
Kiyosumi Maru #1, military transport. Penetration dive. Bottom time 53 minutes, max depth 84 feet (18 May)
Kiyosumi Maru #2, penetration dive. Bottom time 54 minutes, max depth 90 feet (18 May)
Yamagiri Maru. Bottom time 55 minutes, mad depth 87 feet. (18 May). I think the video is from this dive.
Fumitzuki, destroyer. Bottom time 63 feet, max depth 113 feet (19 May)
Shinoku Maru #1, naval tanker. She is notable for participating in the attack on Pearl Harbor. No penetration, just a look around the outside. Bottom time 43 minutes, max depth 123 feet. (19 May)
I think this video was from this dive, but it’s hard to tell
Shinoku Maru #3, bottom time 44 minutes, depth 100 feet. Night dive. (19 May)
Unkai Maru. Bottom time 44 minutes, max depth 100 feet (20 May)
Fujikawa Maru #1. One of the most famous wrecks in the lagoon, in particular for the “R2D2” looking air compressor . Bottom time 51 minutes, max depth 104 feet (20 May)
Not sure if the 4th video is for the Fijukawa, but taking a good guess
Hoki Maru, transport. Famous for having a hold full of neat artifacts, including a truck. Bottom time 28 minutes, max depth 135 feet. (20 May)
Pizon Reef for a shark feed! Bottom time 53 minutes, max depth 81 feet (21 May)
Rio de Janerio Maru #1. Another famous wreck; bottom time 58 minutes, max depth 102 feet. (21 May)
Rio de Janeiro Maru #2, night dive into the engine room. Bottom time 53 feet, max depth 100 feet. (21 May)
Nippo Maru #1, passenger cargo ship. Bottom time 62 feet, max depth 123 feet. Lots of photo opportunities, including a Japanese tank in the cargo hold. (22 May)
Nippo Maru #2, bottom time 28 minutes, max depth 127 feet. (22 May)
Wreck of a “Betty” Mitsubishi attack plane. Bottom time 32 minutes, max depth 65 feet. (22 May)
Sankisan Maru. Bottom time 32 minutes, max depth 70 feet. (22 May)
Kensho Maru. Bottom time 46 minutes, max depth 111 feet. Famous for its engine room. (23 May)
Heian Maru. Bottom time 45 minutes, max depth 97 feet. (23 May).
Wine Trails and Wanderlust 