Cunningham Creek Winery & Farm Store

Great visit to a winery that’s off the beaten trail. They are a good 20 minutes from the nearest wine cluster, and GPS guidance wasn’t much assistance because of a lack of phone signal. Still, I found it, and was quite impressed.

They’ve been open as a winery only a year, although I think the vines have been producing for several years. 12 acres under vine, plus they get some grapes from other VA vineyards (although they are moving to 100% estate). I don’t know the production; they are on the new side, so they likely haven’t hit their stride.

Although I describe them as ‘off the beaten path’, you’d never know it by the tasting room. Cozy and well appointed, they have 3 x mini tasting bars instead of a single long bar, so you get a more personalized experience. My server (who was also the wine maker) was fun too; he talked us through all their wines, and was happy to trade his own wine-visiting stories.

They had a large variety, although only a portion were on the tasting menu. On trust alone I bought their Petit Verdot (especially since it was aged 21 months in French Oak). The reds I had were on the lighter, less tannic side, although I deeply appreciate the 18 month (minimum) aging they do.

What I tried:

15 Chardonnay: Made in new French Oak; exceptionally good (although I’m biased towards Chards in new French Oak).

15 Viognier: Citrus notes; after the Chard this didn’t blow me away, although it was nice in it’s own right.

15 “Cycle 76” (Pinot Gris): Very light.

15 Cabernet Franc: For reds, on the light side.

14 Merlot: Nice cherry nose and light body.

14 Meritage: I liked it…but it needs time. Leave it alone for a year or two.

Don’t let the dogs mooch you! They may act hungry, but both were pretty spoiled.

Quievremont Winery

Quievremont has actually been open for a while, but only recently opened a formal tasting room. It’s a shame they weren’t better known before, because I really enjoyed my visit!

While driving there be careful about using a GPS; the address took me to their old tasting room/farm, which is NOT where you want to go. But the Amish-barn style tasting room is very nice, with a wonderful view of the farm and pond. I visited only a week after their formal opening so furniture was sparse, but that should fix itself in another few weeks. Fortunately, the patio is ready.

They have 9 or 10 acres of vines, making their wines almost 100% estate (they get some Syrah from elsewhere but that’s it). Some vines were planted in 2008, but many are new. In fact the tasting room’s front lawn is full of new plantings. They also have Malbec planted (although I’m not sure if they will bottle it or use it for Bordeaux blends). The later wouldn’t surprise me since the owner told me they intend to specialize in Bordeaux styles (the family name is French, after all).

Owner/wine maker John Guevremont is a retired Marine Corps aviator, for whom ‘retired’ is a lose term. But his French-Norman name must have a strong pull on him, since he decided to open a winery that focuses on Bordeaux-style wines.

My server was wonderful. He talked me through all their wines, and even cleansed my glass with wine between tastings (most places use water, but wine does a better job clearing out the previous flavors). He did an admirable job trying to convince me to join their wine club, but they are a tad bit far away from me!

As for the wines:

Steel Chardonnay: OK. I like my Chards heavily oaked, so this wasn’t my style.

2014 Merlot: The nose had lots of earth and dark cherry. The body was likewise earthy. Pretty good.

2014 Cab Franc: Like the Merlot, earth & dark cherry. Maybe this is a stylistic thing for them?

2014 Cab Sauvignon: The American Oak barrel shined thru, because I got some nice vanilla. It seemed more mellow than the Merlot of Cab Franc. I almost got a bottle, but was interrupted by…

2014 Meritage: If the other wines were earthy & black fruit, this seemed much lighter, like red cherries. Soft, too. I was so impressed I bought a bottle of the 2012 Meritage.

Rose: Dry style, not bad but I’m not much of a Rose drinker.

Vin de Maison: Table red (Syrah and some others): Not bad, but I was still dreaming about the Meritage so it was hard to pay attention!

Quick note; the name “Quievremont” is a bastardization of the French word for “Goat Mountain”, hence the pictures of goats on the label. Even better, this is a working farm that has goats! It’s not exactly on the agenda, but if you ask politely they may allow you to visit the farm and pet some farm animals.

My server was wonderful. He talked me through all their wines, and even cleansed my glass with wine between tastings (most places use water, but wine does a better job clearing out the previous flavors). He did an admirable job trying to convince me to join their wine club, but they are a tad bit far away from me!

As for the wines:

Steel Chardonnay: OK. I like my Chards heavily oaked, so this wasn’t my style.

2014 Merlot: The nose had lots of earth and dark cherry. The body was likewise earthy. Pretty good.

2014 Cab Franc: Like the Merlot, earth & dark cherry. Maybe this is a stylistic thing for them?

2014 Cab Sauvignon: The American Oak barrel shined thru, because I got some nice vanilla. It seemed more mellow than the Merlot of Cab Franc. I almost got a bottle, but was interrupted by…

2014 Meritage: If the other wines were earthy & black fruit, this seemed much lighter, like red cherries. Soft, too. I was so impressed I bought a bottle of the 2012 Meritage.

Rose: Dry style, not bad but I’m not much of a Rose drinker.

Vin de Maison: Table red (Syrah and some others): Not bad, but I was still dreaming about the Meritage so it was hard to pay attention!

Quick note; the name “Quievremont” is a bastardization of the French word for “Goat Mountain”, hence the pictures of goats on the label. Even better, this is a working farm that has goats! It’s not exactly on the agenda, but if you ask politely they may allow you to visit the farm and pet some farm animals.

Bluestone Vineyard

Very nice visit to a vineyard that has one of the nicest views I’ve seen in a while. Bluestone makes 5000 cases/year, and has about 18 acres of vines, plus they lease some vineyards and get grapes from elsewhere. So…not a big producer, but not a nano-producer by any means.

I didn’t get the backstory of the vineyard, but it was easy to tell why they picked this location. The hillside is very scenic, especially with the gorgeous home on top. The tasting room is small (actually in the owner’s basement…but a wonderful basement!), but that should change once the new tasting room is ready (which, sadly, is at the bottom of the hill).

Several tasting options are available; I did the Reserve Reds. What struck me was how well aged the reds are; all were 2013 or 2014 vintages. Not only that, but Bluestone tends to keep their reds in barrel longer than most places, at around 20 months. This is my style of red!

What I tried:

2015 Wilton White (Viognier): Fermented in acacia wood. Amazing woody nose that reminded me of a Chardonnay with a long time in new French Oak. I was shocked to learn this was a Viognier; nearly everywhere else, they tend to have an overpowering honeysuckle nose. But the nose was wonderful and the wine was very soft. Best Viognier I’ve had in a while!

2015 Petit Manseng: The nose was sugary but the palate was not. Tropical fruit notes, and I suspect high acid.

2015 Chambourcin: Fruity; not bad but not a repeat for me.

2014 Cabernet Sauvignon: Very red fruit forward.

2013 Houndstooth red blend: Smokey, with a black cherry finish. Nice.

2014 Petit Verdot: Some bite but not overwhelming, like some PVs can be.

2013 Cadenza (red blend): The word is a musical term for improvisation, the wine maker changes this blend up all the time, so this blend could be dramatically different next year. It was bold up front but the red fruit came out at the end.

CrossKeys Vineyard

OK, this review is a bit biased; I was lucky to have a ‘insider’ give me a personal tasting. Even so, I think I would have given them 5 stars anyway. That’s because CrossKeys delivers a rare trifecta; amazing venue, wonderful service, and most importantly great wine.

CrossKeys makes around 8000 cases/year and has 33 acres of vines, all French varietals with the exception of Portuguese grape Touriga Nacional. The business has a wonderful back-story as well. The owners are immigrants who were living in California but decided they wanted to raise their kids in a more rural area; the Shenandoah definitely fit that bill. One day a family friend suggested that given the amount of wine they drank, it would simply be easier for build a winery. Well, that idea planted a seed which years later became CrossKeys.

The first thing you notice is the surroundings. CrossKeys is a popular wedding destination, and the huge building can definitely support them. It also has a bistro, which is great for a nice lunch. While I often get worried that places that are heavy on ‘presentation’ do so at the expense of focusing on the making wine, my tasting demonstrated they avoided this pitfall.

What I tried (and it was a lot):

2015 Chardonnay: Fermented in both steel and new French oak; it retained its crispness but the flavors of the oak also shined thru (note – I’m a big fan of Chardonnays soaked in French oak).

2015 Joy White: Named for the lady who suggested the family build a winery, it had 2% sugar but didn’t have the of cloying sweetness that I despise in many sweeter wines.

2015 Flore: Off dry rose, although I would have thought it was on the dry side. Sorry, roses are not my thing!

2015 Pinot Noir: Light and tart; my lips started puckering up by this point. CrossKeys is one of a small handful of Virginia wineries that even attempt to grow this grape, and I’m glad they do!

2015 Merlot: Nice cherry finish.

2015 Cabernet Franc: Spicy and vegetal notes on the nose, soft finish. It also noticeably avoids the heavy green pepper notes that I often get in Virginia C. Francs.

2015 Petit Verdot: Oh PV, how I love you so! Pretty smooth, as opposed to the immediate intensity many PVs have. Maybe it spent lots of time in barrel?

2015 Meritage: Also smooth, I think it was 34% PV which shown thru.

2015 Touriga Nacional: The national grape of Portugal, this was a very rare opportunity to see this grape bottled in Virginia. It’s not easy to describe; its bold and spicy, but not peppery-spice, more like cooking spice.

2014 Tavern port-style: The wine maker must be a stickler for authenticity, because he made this port-style with the Touriga, which is what ‘real’ ports are made from. One of the nicest ports I’ve had in a while; it lacked the alcohol-y boldness that tend to overwhelm port-styles.

Ali d’or desert wine (Traminette and Vidal Blanc): I tend to avoid desert wines, but I seem to remember liking this (although my notes fail me on the specifics).

Fischer’s Hill Battlefield

I’m a history buff in general, and a military history buff in particular. So living near the epicenter of Civil War history, you can imagine I’m in my element.

For background, the battle was fought on September 21-22, 1864 during the final Union push into the Shenandoah. Still reeling from a very recent defeat at Winchester, the Confederates retreated to Fischer’s Hill, near the northern mouth of the Shenandoah Valley. Jubal Early’s Confederates could only muster 9,500 soldiers, while Sheridan’s Union force had almost 30,000.

This location was nicknamed the “Gibraltar” of the Shenandoah. The position was the narrowest part of the valley, anchored by Massanutten Mountain to the east and Little North Mountain to the west. Its defensibility was augmented by the hill’s steep slopes, situated behind a small creek. If well defended, this position could shut out a Union advance.

Unfortunately for them, Confederates were so few in number they were unable to properly defend the position. Ideally, their line would have reached the length of the valley from mountainside to mountainside. Instead they could only man a portion of the line; their left flank was essentially exposed.

Seeing the enemy line didn’t reach the mountains on the western side of the valley, VIII Corps commander Gen. George Crook devised a plan to sneak around the Confederate left flank at night. Crook selected a lawyer to plead his case to Sheridan; a Colonel (and future President) named Rutherford B Hays. Not wanting to dare a frontal assault, Sheridan accepted Crook’s plan.

The maneuver was successful. Two Union divisions surprised the Confederate left flank, rolling up their battle line while at the same time the main army launched a frontal attack. Early and much of the Confederate Army of the Shenandoah got away but was so crippled it was unable to oppose Phil Sheridan’s ‘burning’ of the Shenandoah Valley.

But what makes any battlefield tour fun are the human stories – and this one has a doozy. The Confederates posted a lookout in the high branches of a tree, hoping to spot the Union troops at a distance. I wonder – did he see a line of blue uniforms outflanking him? If so, what did he say? Did he flail his arms at his comrades saying “Um….guys….GUYS!!!! LOOK TO OUR LEFT!!!”. Was his calls heeded? Regardless, it must have been a shock to see two Union divisions charging up the hill at their unprotected flank. Even now, the tree bears scars from the battle.

Thanks to a non-profit the battlefield at Fischer’s Hill (aka Ramseur’s Hill) has recently received a well deserved upgrade. These include a parking lot, walking trail, and “Civil War Trails” signs explaining the flow of the battle and the background of key commanders. There’s still work to be done, but it’s a good start.

The parking lot is small but it’s been almost empty every time I’ve ever visited it. There are sign posts at the start of the trail, but be sure to go to your right and up the hill after you pass thru the gateway. The trail (dirt in some places, gravel in others) goes in a loop, passing a still-standing tree which was used as a look-out post by a Confederate soldier who tried to warn his commander of a large Union force bearing down on their flank. Overall, the ‘hike’ takes less than an hour.

https://www.battlefields.org/learn/articles/battle-fishers-hill

Wine Reserve At Waterford

As the label of their red blend states, “The Wine Reserve was born several years ago in a vineyard far, far away…”.

Great visit to what is (for now) Loudoun’s newest wine tasting room. It was extra special because it was hosted by the two owners, John and Cory, who do double-duty here as well as maintaining full time jobs in D.C. I really don’t know how people can pull such a thing off; I’m guessing it comes at the expense of sleep. 5 stars because despite only being open 3 weeks, the operation was running smoothly and I enjoyed their two house wines (more on those in a minute).

The Reserve was formerly Loudoun Valley Vineyard. While the tasting room is the same (although the interior is refurbished) the vines were replanted. While right now they only have an acre planted (but not yet producing), John told me they hope to have maybe another 4 acres in the future.

When I visited they had two flight options of 5 wines each. Both options had the Reserve’s two wines, but otherwise one flight was made of VA wines and the other from out of state. All were well selected, but the ones that I liked the most were the ones made under their own label; the “Prologue” red blend and “Tropic Thunder” Chardonnay.

While the Reserve doesn’t yet make its own wine, fortunately they partnered with Doug Fabbioli, namesake of Fabbioli Cellars. Doug is fantastic; I couldn’t have hoped for a better person for them to partner with. John even told me the story of how they worked with Doug to get the type of wines & tasting notes they wanted.

For the Prologue, it’s a 50/50 blend of VA Petit Verdot grapes and California Merlot, and expresses itself as such. Very nice mix of spiciness (but not peppery) while having a black cherry finish.

For the Tropic Thunder, it’s a mix of steel and oak. I liked it, and I suspect it would appeal to Chardonnay fans who like either.

Multi-winery tasting rooms are still new to most Virginia wine lovers. But they are fine with me, and I hope people give The Wine Reserve a try.

Ashton Creek Vineyard

Ashton Creek reminds me of an urban winery. Located about 20 miles due south of Richmond, you pass by several neighborhoods before finding their winery/event center. While generally speaking I find wineries that emphasize the wedding venue part of the business tend to have a poorer selections of wines, my concerns were allayed by an excellent tasting. Well trained, friendly staff too. They are still new, but I think they are going in the right direction.

The interior was nice, and they had a good selection of small dishes like flatbreads & salads, in addition to charcuterie boards. In many ways, it reminded me more of a wine bar vs. a winery. It’s a shame I didn’t plan to have dinner here.

While they have 5 acres of grapes (including some planted in front of their building), for the time being they are getting grapes from Bluestone Vineyard (in the Shenandoah). But Ashton makes its own wine, which I think demonstrates its commitment to making a good product.

In addition to this line up, they had some guest-ciders. As for the wine:

Seyval Blanc: Crisp, citrus or apple notes (my friend & I disagreed on which). I’m not much of a white drinker and even more rarely a Seyval drinker, but I really liked this one.

Traminette: As you expect from this grape, strong floral nose. If you don’t like this grape, theirs won’t change your mind. But if you do, a good selection.

Rose: Strawberry nose, pink color, semi-sweet.

Moscato: This was a surprising edition because I never see this grape, and it was made on the dry side. Great honey & fruit nose, silky body. A winner!

Cab Sav: Dark fruit notes (I got plumb), very dark color. Pretty good

Cab Franc: My tasting notes fail me, but I seem to remember this was the only part of the line up I didn’t care for.

My biggest complaint is they are so short on inventory, they aren’t selling bottles of the Moscato, Rose, or Cab Sav. Hopefully once they settle in, this will soon change.

Muse Vineyards

Muse has been one of my favorite wineries for a while. Even when it was just getting started, their 2009 Clio red blend won the Virginia’s Governor’s Cup award in 2015. So to say I was anxiously awaiting for the formal tasting room to open is a major understatement.

I’d been visiting Muse for years even before the new tasting room was open (they were doing tastings in their production area). Owner (and former ambassador) Sally Cowal usually lead those tastings, to the point where she would recognize me by name on my not infrequent visits. But this occasion was special – their new tasting room had just opened, so a new pilgrimage must commence.

The drive there is a bit challenging; you have to go down a steep slop to the banks of the Shenandoah river and cross a low stone bridge. Early closings because of flooding is definitely a thing here. Although when that happens, the brave (or just really thirsty) can make the trip over a higher and much narrower walking bridge down the road and earn themselves a free tasting as a reward for their effort.

Wineries can live and die by the quality of their fruit – but Muse has a secret weapon. While their 30 acres under vine has all the varietals you typically see in Virginia, they specialize in French varietals that you almost never see elsewhere. Gamay? Sure thing. Chenin Blanc? Got it. Grenache? No problem. Marsanne? Mourvedre? Roussanne? Check check check. They even have some Nebbiolo thrown into the mix. It’s hard to over estimate how unique this collection is, because while all are difficult to find in Virginia, I don’t think any single vineyard anywhere in Virginia can boast this assortment in one place. When I learned that Gabrielle Rausse – one of my favorite wine makers of all time – sources fruit from here, I knew it had to be extra special.

What I tried:

Thalia white blend (forget the year): Minerally & floral. Interesting nose and delicate body. I’m typically not a white drinker but I loved it so much I bought a bottle.

2015 Sav Blanc: Lemon, citrus notes, medium acid.

2014 Chardonnay: Oaky, buttery nose and oak on the palate. Their 2013 Chardonnay was one of my favorite Chards anywhere in Virginia. This wasn’t quite as good, but was still pretty darn good.

2014 Rose: Made with Gamay grapes. Peach on the nose, and peach colored.

2012 Calliope: Made with Grenache and Syrah. Light bodied red with some spice. Liked it.

2010 Clio (Bordeaux red blend, equal parts Cab Franc, Cab Sav, Merlot, and Petit Verdot): Blackberry on the nose with a pepper finish.

2011 Clio: Same blend as the 2010, but smoother.

It’s a shame I came on such a cloudy day; the gray pictures don’t match the warmth of the interior!

Doukenie Winery

What is it with the Greeks and their wine? This is the second Greek-American winery I’ve been to this month, and maybe the 4th this year – and just in Virginia. But even in an area known for its winery trails, Doukénie really stood out.

Doukénie is mid-to-large-sized by Virginia standards; they own or manage 55 acres under vine and produce 5,000 cases/year. They are also one of the older wineries in the area, having been founded in the late 1980s by a heart doctor (obviously he understood early on that a glass a day is healthy for you). The family history is very cool; that doctor is the grandson of a Greek emigrant named Doukénie, and it was Doukénie’s daughter Hope (now in her 90s) who nudged her son to plant grapes. In fact, Hope still bakes baklava for guests.

While I’ve never seen an ugly winery, Doukénie is especially amazing. They have a wonderful pond outside next to the deck. Let’s just say there’s a reason they are a perennial contender for Virginia’s favorite tasting room. It’s a shame it was raining because I would have loved to sit outside, although at least my friends and I had the benefit of having the place to ourselves.

My group was early so we were showered with attention by our tasting associate. Doukénie’s tasting sheets have tasting notes, but she preferred to ask what “You” think you taste first rather than lead you with what “they” say. Their wines trended towards dry & medium-bodied, although that seems to change slightly year-to-year.

What I tried:

2015 Pinot Gris: Bright, some apple notes. Petty good

2014 Chardonnay: Definitely a summer-themed drink; light bodied with lime notes.

2015 Mandolin white blend (named after grandma Doukénie’s actual mandolin): Grassy & melon flavors. Blend of Traminette and Vidal. This is the closest they have to a semi-sweet, although it was still only barely that.

2014 Merlot: Medium bodied, strong plumb notes and a very nice finish.

2014 Zeus: This is perhaps their signature wine, and the blend changes year-to-year. Last year was my favorite vintage since it had a lot of Tannat, but this blend had only a splash of it. But I still enjoyed it.

2014 Sangiovese: This was actually a members wine, but with a little bit of schmoozing (OK – begging) we got a sample. Typically these wines are light bodied, but they added some Petit Syrah and Tannat to give it body & structure. Seriously, this blew me away. Great advertisement for membership in their wine club!

2014 Vintner’s Reserve (red blend): Soft, green pepper on the nose, medium to full bodied and good complexity. Very good!

2014 Cab Sav: Soft, light to medium bodied. Liked it but after the last several it didn’t stand out.

Hope’s Legacy: Desert wine with raspberry notes, but too sweet for me.
One last thing about the tasting notes. Our server had perhaps the best tasting description ever, saying “This wine pairs well with Gilmore Girls”. I swear, my two friends just LOST IT. But I’ll just take it on her word that this is true!