Welcome To the Oenoverse

Comic book films have popularized the idea of “shared universes,” where heroes from multiple worlds join together. It’s great movie fodder, but it wasn’t until Reggie Leonard described the breadth of the wine club/wine community/access & opportunity program he co-founded that I realized why this initiative refers to itself under a similar moniker.

I say this because the “Oenoverse” (Ee-Nuh-Verse) is all of those things and more.

Reggie’s passion for wine began in 2015 when he took a job at the University of Virginia’s School of Data Science. An urge to meet people and try something new led to the discovery of free tastings at Market Street Wine in downtown Charlottesville. Little did he realize these tastings would introduce him to an entirely new community.

Photo credit: Kori Price

“I’m an ambivert; an introvert but in an extroverted way,” Reggie said over the phone. “I knew that community is important to me, and I wanted to make sure that I found a community that allowed me to be extroverted.

At first I didn’t understand any of the terminology used at these wine tastings. But over time, I surprised myself by starting to remember different names, recognizing different tasting profiles.

I connected to wine more than I realized, and through that realization I eventually discovered a Black Wine Lovers Facebook group.”

Learning the terminology of wine is difficult enough. But Reggie was encountering another barrier; the world of wine isn’t easily accessible to people of color.

The lexicon of wine relies on Eurocentric descriptors and food pairings that the BIPOC community doesn’t always relate to. On top of that, the lack of other Black faces made the experience more daunting.

“When I experienced wine, it didn’t mirror the rest of my life, since the traditional wine experience wasn’t built with me in mind,” he explained. Reggie didn’t realize it at that time, but this realization must have triggered an idea. If there wasn’t a community for those outside their comfort zone to learn about wine, he’d help build one.

Building a Community

In late 2020 Market Street Wine approached Reggie about hosting virtual events. One of the participants was Blenheim Vineyards Sales/Marketing Director Tracey Love. The two eventually connected in-person, leading to a collaboration with Blenheim.

Tracey encouraged Reggie to host an event to talk about his wine journey. That led to further discussions how they could replicate this theme of ‘community’, all along the backdrop of wine.

Reggie Leonard

The “Oenoverse” was born.

According to its website, Blenheim’s Oenoverse Club is “dedicated to expanding opportunity and perspective through Virginia wine for people who have never joined a wine club or are seasoned professionals.” While outreach to members of historically underrepresented communities is a key part of its mission, the club is open to everyone. Members are also encouraged to share their wine tasting experience during their events.

Yet the Oenoverse doesn’t exist by itself; it’s part of an ecosystem of similarly-minded organizations. Among them are Charlottesville’s Ethos Wine & Tea and RichWine, an online wine club based in Richmond. Both businesses focus on low-intervention, sustainable wines.

Probably their most active partner is The Veraison Project, which co-hosts the Two Up Wine Down music festival and Oeno Camp. The former takes place every November at the Jefferson School African American Heritage Center, while the latter is a three-day Virginia wine immersion program for historically underrepresented consumers and industry professionals.

Showcasing Non-Traditional Grapes and Styles

The Oenoverse’s advocacy for the underrepresented goes beyond outreach to communities of color; it showcases other parts of the wine industry that are often overlooked.

“What else can wine look like?” Reggie asked rhetorically. “Historically, we’ve only paid attention to vinifera wine. But who doesn’t like more options?”

Reggie and Lance Lemon, owner of RichWine, were deeply inspired by Jahdè Marley’s “Anything But Vinifera” wine movement. Jahdè’s desire to spotlight hybrid and non-traditional grapes encouraged the two to found their latest initiative; The Parallax Project.

Several years ago, winemakers Ben and Tim Jordan of Commonwealth Crush reached out to Reggie and Lance to explore ideas for a partnership of their own. At the end of that conversation, the quartet came up with the idea of making a small-batch of wine, produced at Commonwealth but under Reggie and Lance’s direction.

The project’s name was inspired by what’s called “The Parallax Effect,” which is “a difference in the apparent position of an object when viewed along two different lines of sight.”

Lance and Reggie applied this principle to their two wines, both made with a mix of vinifera and hybrid grapes. While one is a red and the other is a white, both were made using nearly the same grapes but blended in different proportions and made using different winemaking styles.

Reggie summarized his myriad of projects with this; “We are building a space for something that has not been built for. That’s not just for people of color but other aspects of wine, like hybrids and lower-alcohol wine.

If we do that, we can bring in customers that weren’t part of the market before.”

Walsh Bar Takeover Blue Wall Cider and The Parallax Project

Last month (after a hard day of sorting grapes at Linden) I went over to Walsh for their latest Friday Bar Takeover. This event included a pair of new participants, The Parallax Project and Blue Wall Cider & Wine.

I’ve become accustomed to visiting old friends at these Bar Takeovers (looking at you, Jake Busching, Joy Ting, Daring Wine Co) but it’s exciting to try new, small brands. Some projects showcased here are actually produced at Walsh Family Wine, while others are what you might call ‘visiting friends’.

Parallax falls into the ‘visiting friends’ category. The brand is owned by entrepreneur and jack-of-all-trades Lance Lemon & “Virginia wine hype guy” Reggie Leonard, friends who decided to collaborate with Commonwealth Crush Co to create wines unique to them. These gents are also helping lead the charge for greater diversity in the Virginia wine scene.

Blue Wall is owned by Justin and Casey Wisch, who also own nearby Long Stone Farm. Blue Wall is one of the many small projects that Nate Walsh and his winemaking team support. The Wisches source their apples from their estate orchard and grapes from Nate’s vineyards, all of which is made at Walsh Family and labeled under the Blue Wall brand name.

The Parallax Project

Kathy Wiedemann & I decided to start our visit with Parallax, who were hanging out in Walsh’s Garden Room. Reggie and Lance have so far produced two wines; “What’s This”, and “What’s That”.

The project’s name was inspired by what’s called “The Parallax Effect”, which is “a difference in the apparent position of an object when viewed along two different lines of sight”.

Lance and Reggie applied this principle to their wines. While one is a red wine and the other is a white, both were made using nearly the same grapes but in different blends and winemaking styles.

The 2023 “What’s This” is their white wine, a blend of 32% Vidal Blanc, 29% Chardonel, 29% Tannat (direct press), 6% Petit Manseng, 3% Traminette, 1% Albariño.

I’d never heard of a blend that even approaches this wine, and it was just as tasty as it was interesting; the kind of wine you need to keep sipping just to figure out what’s in your glass. Very floral with citrus notes (amongst others). I bought a bottle.

The 2023 “What’s That” is 83% Tannat, 8% Vidal Blanc, 7% Chardonel, 1% Petit Manseng, and 1% Traminette. While technically you could call this a ‘tannat’, it’s the farthest thing from one. Lower on the tannin, more fruit, and also highly aromatic.

The blending may seem odd – but they work. Both wines were designed to be enjoyed young and are very much in line with the off-beat style I’ve come to expect from their wine mentors, Ben and Tim Jordan of Commonwealth Crush.

Blue Wall Cider & Wine

In the main tasting room was Justin and Casey Wisch, who were pouring four of their ciders; Black Twig, Wickson Crab, Ashmead’s Kernel, and Virginia WineSap.

Blue Wall is actually just one component of Long Stone Farm, a sustainable farming operation that offers everything from CSA shares, a farm store for their meat and produce (which doubles as a wine/cider tasting room), even a monthly ‘Sunday Supper’.

The last is perhaps my favorite initiative of theirs, as it showcases everything that’s made at their farm but served by a local chef.

Blue Wall’s ciders are made in a ‘traditional’ style, which I nickname ‘wine cider’. No carbonation here; these ciders are meant to showcase the fruit they came from.

Wickson Crab was the ‘biggest’ of the four in terms of flavor, probably because it was barrel aged. It was my favorite of the more standard ciders.

Next up were Black Twig and Ashmead. Black Twig is off dry, while Ashmead is definitely the sweetest of the lineup. Had it been warmer the Ashmead would be a summer pounder outside (in fact it was when I attended their dinner).

But my favorite was Winesap, made as a sparkling pet-nat style cider. Very light and drinkable, and I suspect extremely food friendly. I got a bottle of this to go and will definitely open it with friends at dinner.

Special shout-out to Kathy’s husband, who brought the pizza that we ate outside.